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The Valentine Wall

California > High Desert > Barstow Area > New Jack City > Entrance Area Crags

Description

The Valentine Wall is the tall brown and black wall on the north end of the formation and across the road from campsite #3. The Valentine Wall is on the north side of the same formation that contains The White Face, which is on the south side. The Valentine Wall is shady in the morning and receives afternoon sun.

Getting There

When entering Sawtooth Canyon campground drive past the speed bumps and the campground host and turn right after passing the kiosk. Drive past the restroom and pass The White Face, and two Day Use/Picnic sites on the right. Continue between the rock formations to a wide parking area and campsite #3, on the left. The Valentine Wall is the tall brown wall on the right (south).

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
● Tear in My Heart
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 76
● My Bloody Valentine
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 91
● Victoria's Secret
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
● Cupid's Arrow
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 86
● Cupid's Fever
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
● Truely, Madly, Deeply
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 65
● Love Potion #9
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
● Shitake
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
● TAKE!
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
● Walkie Talkie
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 14
● Magic Mushroom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Tear in My Heart
 6
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● My Bloody Valentine
 76
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Victoria's Secret
 91
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Cupid's Arrow
 31
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Cupid's Fever
 86
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Truely, Madly, Deeply
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
● Love Potion #9
 65
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Shitake
 22
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● TAKE!
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Walkie Talkie
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Magic Mushroom
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sophie being a great crag dog and watching her peeps climb on the Valentine Wall.
[Hide Photo] Sophie being a great crag dog and watching her peeps climb on the Valentine Wall.
The Valentine Wall, from the road.
[Hide Photo] The Valentine Wall, from the road.
The Valentine Wall, from campsite #3.
[Hide Photo] The Valentine Wall, from campsite #3.
The SCMA showing up in force at the Valentine Wall.
[Hide Photo] The SCMA showing up in force at the Valentine Wall.
Magic Mushroom in mid december
[Hide Photo] Magic Mushroom in mid december
Climber on Victoria's Secret
[Hide Photo] Climber on Victoria's Secret

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Billy Shin
Inglewood, ca
[Hide Comment] There is a unfinished route in the middle, between Victoria's Secret and Cupid's Fever. I think it goes at 5.10a or so. There's 3 bolts for the route, and bolt 1 is missing.

It can be a good mxied route, I climbed it yesterday. Some trad gear to follow up the crack that appears pretty quick. Few good hand jams and few toe jams and you are pretty much done.

It's probably safer to TR this for most folks. Oct 18, 2015
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
[Hide Comment] Tried a new (to me) route right of Love Potion #9 today. Desperately hard for me, so I'm guessing 5.10+ or harder. Anyone have any info? Mar 4, 2020
Whitaker Diamond Swayze
Canyon Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] The route to the right is “Shitake” 5.10b. FA Dwain Porter Feb 2020 Mar 11, 2020
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
[Hide Comment] 10b?! Guess I'm weaker than I thought. Mar 12, 2020
Whitaker Diamond Swayze
Canyon Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] You are stronger than you think! Brandt Allen. Footwork is tricky. I got pumped out the first go before I dialed in the beta. The crux might be harder than 10b. Mar 12, 2020