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Routes in The Valentine Wall

Cupid's Fever S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Potion 9 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Bloody Valentine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Victoria's Secret S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

The Valentine Wall is the tall brown and black wall on the north end of the formation across the road from campsite #3. The Valentine Wall is on the north side of the same formation that contains The White Face, which is on the south side.

Getting There

When entering Sawtooth Canyon campground drive past the speed bumps and the campground host and turn right after passing the kiosk. Drive past the restroom and pass The White Face, and two campsites, on the right. Continue between the rock formations to a wide parking area and campsite #3, on the left. The Valentine Wall is the tall brown wall on the right (south).

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Valentine Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
There is a unfinished route in the middle, between Victoria's Secret and Cupid's Fever. I think it goes at 5.10a or so. There's 3 bolts for the route, and bolt 1 is missing.

It can be a good mxied route, I climbed it yesterday. Some trad gear to follow up the crack that appears pretty quick. Few good hand jams and few toe jams and you are pretty much done.

It's probably safer to TR this for most folks. Oct 18, 2015
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
Nice to have a few new routes at New Jack. These routes are still shedding some holds for now, but should clean up nicely in time. My Bloody Valentine was our group's favorite, though we thought 5.9 was a more accurate rating. Feb 25, 2015

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