Description

The "other" Lover's Leap. Obscure in comparison to its Tahoe sibling, but awesome nonetheless, this Lover's Leap is a limestone plug on the top of a ridgeline, with 360 degree views of the Scott Valley. The rock quality ranges from good, to excellent, to bullet. There are approximately 75 routes currently, with a lot of new route potential at all grades. Another undiscovered gem of northern California.

Lover's Leap can be climbed almost year-round, although spring and fall are typically the best seasons. The crag may get snow in the winter, and summer can be pretty hot. However, routes and walls exist at all aspects, so there is always sun or shade to be found.

A large group campsite can be found at the parking area, or drive up the access road a little ways (4WD recommended) for more secluded spots.

Getting There

From the east, find Gazelle-Callahan Road off of Old Highway 99. Take a left on Masterson Road and follow for ~1 mile. Take a left on Kangaroo Creek Road and follow for ~4 miles. Take a left at a hairpin turn, drive for another mile, and park at the large landing on your left. The main rock formation should have been visible to your left for most of the last mile.

From the parking (which also doubles as an excellent camp site), head up an older/rougher road for ~10 minutes. A fairly obvious trail leads from the end of the road to the crag along a relatively flat ridgeline. Expect an ~30 minute hike to the first wall.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lover's Leap

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Doesn't Suck
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Squirrel Nose
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Mini Dihedral
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Finger Bucket
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Gun Show
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Monkey Wrench
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Unknown
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Jug Lord
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Meant to Be
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Werewolves of London
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Groove Tube
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Chasin' Tail
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 4
Chalkdust Torture
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Kinship of Fools
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Doesn't Suck 45 Wall
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Squirrel Nose 45 Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mini Dihedral 45 Wall
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Finger Bucket 45 Wall
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Gun Show 45 Wall
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Monkey Wrench 45 Wall
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Unknown 45 Wall
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Jug Lord Trainwreck Wall
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Meant to Be Plasma Wall
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Werewolves of London 45 Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Groove Tube Groove Tube Wall
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Chasin' Tail 45 Wall
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Chalkdust Torture Plasma Wall
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Kinship of Fools Plasma Wall
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lover's Leap »

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Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
Fantastic new entry. Glad it's finally getting filled in with routes. Good job, I know it takes a lot of time to post a lot of info like this. Glad there are people like you who actually take the time to do it, and do a good job. Aug 21, 2015
I've climbed at the Leap twice and noticed several new routes that aren't in the Shipman guide book. Does anyone have any information regarding these new lines? Any information would be greatly appreciated for this fantastic crag.
Thanks. May 15, 2017
Lurker
Truckee, CA
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
Did you look through MP? I've put up a few routes there (45 Wall, Fathers' Day area) that aren't in the book, but are on MP, and I can think of at least 3 routes on the Plasma Wall that fit the same.

I'm sure there's more development going on there as well, Shasta folks are still putting up routes, maybe not putting them on MP though. May 16, 2017
Connor McCafferty   Portland
Took a trip to this fantastic cliff over 4th of July weekend. It was hot so we chased shade; we didn't see another party over the 5 days we were there! Beautiful rock, excellent camping and pristine scenery. I also noticed many new shiny bolt lines not captured here. Highly recommend checking this place out. Jul 9, 2018