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Uptown Rock - Upper Tier
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Pine Creek Canyon
> Uptown Rock
Description
These are the upper slabs at Uptown Rock, featuring excellent slab/face climbs on smooth, but featured, grey, brown, and golden granite.
Most of the climbs are moderate and bolted, but require a few pieces of gear. A small rack with pieces in the small to medium range is strongly recommended. A standard rack is recommended for Sinners and Saints.
A single 70m rope is sufficient for rappelling from the top to the midway anchor (knot ends!) and from the midway anchor to the base. For the routes on the left slab it is also possible to climb to the top (via the midway station of Downtown Man) with a shorter rope and walk/scramble (3rd class) off to the (climber's) right. There is no walk-off for the slab that hosts Uptown Girl and a single 70m rope or two equivalent ropes are required.
Blue Collar is not recommended for the novice leader. The dihedral/corner/flaring crack (with left finish on top), Sinners and Saints, would be a better choice in terms of potential pro.
The Upper Tier of Uptown Rock is usually sheltered from the wind and quite warm relative to other Pine Creek crags.
Getting There
Approach as for Uptown Rock. Follow cairns on the right side (SE) up the sandy slope and talus to gain access to 'Downtown Man' and 'Uptown Girl' - two excellent slab climbs.
[Hide Photo] Uptown Rock - Upper Tier Approx. route and bolt locations. Sinners and Saints is rated 5.6 Funkytown (10b PG13, 6 bolts) shares the start with Sinners and Saints for approx. 10', then goes up…
[Hide Photo] From the base of the rock. On the right, Lin climbing Uptown Girl. To the left JPK climbing Downtown Man, belayed from the bolts halfway up the wall (just do it as one pitch if you have a 70m).
[Hide Comment] I checked this place out yesterday. With a 70m rope, and minimal shenanigans, I was able to micro-trax everything from the top anchor, except for "Allen Bartlett Wasn't Here."
Aspiring slab leaders should be aware that the bolts on many of these routes are farther apart than on typical Pine Creek sport climbs, but they're not Tuolumne spacing either. This is a great place to work on your footwork, as the climbs are techy rather than pumpy, and a cool head and good balance will get you up most of the cruxes.
Things are still a little crunchy in places, but the rock is good quality and it should clean up well with more traffic.
Thanks to Elmar for putting in the time and effort. This is definitely a worthy addition to Pine Creek.
Sep 28, 2015
[Hide Comment] This is a nice crag with quality moderate routes on clean rock. The approach was a bit funky, and did not seem well traveled at all. We were the only party there on a warm June day. It was quite hot in the sun.
Jul 14, 2020
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We had a 70m but it sure seemed like you could rap from the top down to the first anchor and then close enough to the ground with a 60.
Still need to climb the 5.9, but all of the other climbs were fun, well bolted and cleaned up. Apr 16, 2015
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
Bishop, CA
Aspiring slab leaders should be aware that the bolts on many of these routes are farther apart than on typical Pine Creek sport climbs, but they're not Tuolumne spacing either. This is a great place to work on your footwork, as the climbs are techy rather than pumpy, and a cool head and good balance will get you up most of the cruxes.
Things are still a little crunchy in places, but the rock is good quality and it should clean up well with more traffic.
Thanks to Elmar for putting in the time and effort. This is definitely a worthy addition to Pine Creek. Sep 28, 2015
Los Angeles