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Uptown Rock

California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon

Description

Uptown Rock is a large rock formation toward the upper end of Pine Creek Canyon. It is characterized by a beautiful, overhanging SW face and a slabby East face that is broken into several tiers. The rock is a bit more polished and featured (reminiscent of Tuolumne) than what is found in areas like PSOM and the climbing is excellent. The area was originally climbed in the 90's, but only partially developed and then abandoned. In 2015 a few high quality, easy/moderate lines were added and 2018-20 Delta Wall saw a resurgence in hard sport routes.  The East Face routes go in the shade around 1:45pm on winter solstice.

Getting There

Drive up to the end of Pine Creek Canyon and park at the Pine Creek Pass trailhead parking lot or either side of the road near the yellow gate.  DO NOT BLOCK THE GATE!  Walk down on a dirt road on the Northeast side just before the gate (right side when facing the gate from below). Pass three large rocks blocking that road after a hundred feet or so, then continue on a short, narrow path through some bushes and trees.  This section is a serious bog at times and one of the alternate approaches may be better when conditions here are poor.  Work back up out of the trough on the other side and continue the dirt road to the top of the upper tailing pond.  Follow a faint path diagonally across the tailing pond toward the big face of Delta Wall (looks like a shark fin), aiming for a big boulder down and right of that formation.  At the left/North side of the boulder follow a trail up the hill to the climbing, branching off to the left early for Delta Wall/Lower Tier and continuing uphill on the right for the Upper Tier.  The approach is less than a mile and takes about 15-20 minutes.

There are several approach alternatives:

1.) Walk up the road past the bright yellow gate (Morgan Pass) for about 1/3mi, then go right (this is before the first prominent left hand switchback). Follow an old, overgrown dirt road, which turns into a narrow path and leads down toward the upper tailing pond (large flat area) and a tree. Note that this dirt road experienced a serious washout a few years ago and now involves some easy scrambling.  Head across the tailing pond toward the large, shark fin silhouetted rock with some orange coloring. 

2.) Park at the Crack of Noon/Three Hour Buttress parking area and walk the trail up canyon. Longer, more uphill.

3.) Cross the creek at the level of Uptown Rock (roughly the transition between the upper and middle tailing ponds) - shortest, but there's currently no bridge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Uptown Rock Overview
[Hide Photo] Uptown Rock Overview
Colin logging some air time at 'Shorty Wall'
[Hide Photo] Colin logging some air time at 'Shorty Wall'

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Todd Graham
Tennessee
[Hide Comment] I bolted the routes on the shorty wall -- the rightmost route and the left arching crack/seam. I also explored via rap the main steep face -- there are tons of good lines on it -- just really hard. Jan 14, 2016
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] note that in the pic i sent you of shorty wall there is another route farther to the right of 'living easy' Jan 15, 2016
Pickles
Bishop, ca
[Hide Comment] I haven't been out here in a little while. Any information on Middle/Lower tier routes?

Thanks. Jun 1, 2017
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] middle tier is still the same - one route, which was unfortunately posted to the upper tier.

lower tier has 4 'new' routes on it, from left to right 10a, 11a, 5.9, 5.9 (according to tai). i've climbed the 10a and the two 5.9s. 10a is really fun and has awesome position, did it in 2 pitches. the 5.9s are ok, the right one is easier than the left, so maybe more like 5.8. the 11a has sweet little edges at the crux and is really fun. all of these routes are long, up to 22 draws and a 70m rope (80m would be better). there is a midway rap station and a 70m just makes it back down to the right side - knot your ends! Jun 1, 2017
Pickles
Bishop, ca
[Hide Comment] Great, thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

Cheers Jun 1, 2017
Eric A Beck
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] The spot where you drop down from the pavement to the tailings has suffered a nasty, very unstable washout. It is easy to avoid. Fifty feet before the yellow gate, turn right on a dirt road which is blocked by 2 boulders. This crosses a rivulet and then climbs easily up to the top of the tailings.

The section from the Pillsbury Boulder on up is no fun, steep and quite loose. It is well marked with ducks. Jun 30, 2018