Uptown Rock is a large rock formation toward the upper end of Pine Creek Canyon. It is characterized by a beautiful, overhanging SW face and a slabby East face that is broken into several tiers. The rock is a bit more polished and featured (reminiscent of Tuolumne) than what is found in areas like PSOM and the climbing is excellent. The area was originally climbed in the 90's, but only partially developed and then abandoned. In 2015 a few high quality, easy/moderate lines were added and 2018-20 Delta Wall saw a resurgence in hard sport routes. The East Face routes go in the shade around 1:45pm on winter solstice.
Drive up to the end of Pine Creek Canyon and park at the Pine Creek Pass trailhead parking lot or either side of the road near the yellow gate. DO NOT BLOCK THE GATE! Walk down on a dirt road on the Northeast side just before the gate (right side when facing the gate from below). Pass three large rocks blocking that road after a hundred feet or so, then continue on a short, narrow path through some bushes and trees. This section is a serious bog at times and one of the alternate approaches may be better when conditions here are poor. Work back up out of the trough on the other side and continue the dirt road to the top of the upper tailing pond. Follow a faint path diagonally across the tailing pond toward the big face of Delta Wall (looks like a shark fin), aiming for a big boulder down and right of that formation. At the left/North side of the boulder follow a trail up the hill to the climbing, branching off to the left early for Delta Wall/Lower Tier and continuing uphill on the right for the Upper Tier. The approach is less than a mile and takes about 15-20 minutes.
There are several approach alternatives:
1.) Walk up the road past the bright yellow gate (Morgan Pass) for about 1/3mi, then go right (this is before the first prominent left hand switchback). Follow an old, overgrown dirt road, which turns into a narrow path and leads down toward the upper tailing pond (large flat area) and a tree. Note that this dirt road experienced a serious washout a few years ago and now involves some easy scrambling. Head across the tailing pond toward the large, shark fin silhouetted rock with some orange coloring.
2.) Park at the Crack of Noon/Three Hour Buttress parking area and walk the trail up canyon. Longer, more uphill.
3.) Cross the creek at the level of Uptown Rock (roughly the transition between the upper and middle tailing ponds) - shortest, but there's currently no bridge.
Tennessee
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
Bishop, ca
Thanks. Jun 1, 2017
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
lower tier has 4 'new' routes on it, from left to right 10a, 11a, 5.9, 5.9 (according to tai). i've climbed the 10a and the two 5.9s. 10a is really fun and has awesome position, did it in 2 pitches. the 5.9s are ok, the right one is easier than the left, so maybe more like 5.8. the 11a has sweet little edges at the crux and is really fun. all of these routes are long, up to 22 draws and a 70m rope (80m would be better). there is a midway rap station and a 70m just makes it back down to the right side - knot your ends! Jun 1, 2017
Bishop, ca
Cheers Jun 1, 2017
Bishop, CA
The section from the Pillsbury Boulder on up is no fun, steep and quite loose. It is well marked with ducks. Jun 30, 2018