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Routes in Crystal Lake Wall

Adam and Steve T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
An Inconvenient Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ant Jemima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Approach Slabs T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Attack of the Clowns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Backyard Boogie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butterface T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Clown Syndrome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dirtguy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Fried Chiggin Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ghetto Heisman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Incomplete/Avoid T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Project Adadictame T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Projekt 611 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Game, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Swayze Express T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 34.329, -117.846 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,266 total, 64/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Jan 24, 2015
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

I've received emails asking if this is a good place for new leaders. No, it is not.

This wall lies north of the lake at the head of a major drainage. The lower section of the crag offers some solid rock with many loose blocks. The route turns to loose easy scrambling the further up one climbs.

There are several lines that provide fun climbing, though the nature of the rock might wear down one's desire to climb here. All routes are PG13 or runout or whatever.

I don't feel this is a beginner's place, unless they are already mountaineers. Protection can be tricky leading to runout lines. Always check what you're applying weight to.

The standard rack the author uses for routes here is as follows:
60m rope
Double rack of cams from .4-2, single 3 and 4.
Tiny cams up through .4. These come in handy.
Single set of allow offset nuts
Single set of brass offsets for thin placements
10 or so single length runners
2-4 double length runners
Occasionally 1-4 beaks
Helmet!!!!!!!

Getting There

Take a look at the map. You'll notice a talus ramp running down from the base of the wall into a creek, which crosses the road from the Crystal Lake parking lot (for the lake itself). Park just a short distance beyond this point on the right side.

Approach involves hiking directly up this talus field. This is as specific as I can be. I get slightly lost nearly each time I go. There's no one way to go.

Hiking out involves either climbing up and over the crag onto the crest of the South Ridge trail on Mt Islip and back down to the road, or rappelling and reversing the approach. If rappelling, be careful of all the loose rock.

16 Total Climbs

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