Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 34.329, -117.846 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,084 total · 64/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Jan 24, 2015
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

I've received emails asking if this is a good place for new leaders. No, it is not.

This wall lies north of the lake at the head of a major drainage. The lower section of the crag offers some solid rock with many loose blocks. The route turns to loose easy scrambling the further up one climbs.

There are several lines that provide fun climbing, though the nature of the rock might wear down one's desire to climb here. All routes are PG13 or runout or whatever.

I don't feel this is a beginner's place, unless they are already mountaineers. Protection can be tricky leading to runout lines. Always check what you're applying weight to.

The standard rack the author uses for routes here is as follows:
60m rope
Double rack of cams from .4-2, single 3 and 4.
Tiny cams up through .4. These come in handy.
Single set of allow offset nuts
Single set of brass offsets for thin placements
10 or so single length runners
2-4 double length runners
Occasionally 1-4 beaks
Helmet!!!!!!!

Getting There

Take a look at the map. You'll notice a talus ramp running down from the base of the wall into a creek, which crosses the road from the Crystal Lake parking lot (for the lake itself). Park just a short distance beyond this point on the right side.

Approach involves hiking directly up this talus field. This is as specific as I can be. I get slightly lost nearly each time I go. There's no one way to go.

Hiking out involves either climbing up and over the crag onto the crest of the South Ridge trail on Mt Islip and back down to the road, or rappelling and reversing the approach. If rappelling, be careful of all the loose rock.

16 Total Climbs

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