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Routes in Brenta Spire

South Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
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Elevation: 5,407 ft
GPS: 51.116, -116.825 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,561 total · 100/month
Shared By: Hans on Jan 23, 2015
Admins: Kate Lynn
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Description

Brenta Spire stands to the north of the main group of spires in the Bugaboos. The rock quality is generally quite good, though the routes on it have more of a mountaineering feel compared to the rock climbing routes of the rest of the spires. By far the most common route is the south ridge, which can be climbed on its own or as part of the popular Brenta Spire - Northpost Spire traverse.

Getting There

The approach varies depending on the route chosen.

For the south ridge you will need to access the Brenta Spire-Crescent Spire col. I will describe two ways to reach this col.

1. From Applebee camp hike north through the col between Eastpost Spire and the Crescent Towers. Descent snow slopes passing to the base of a valley. Scramble west through large boulders to a point just below the Brenta-Crescent col. A ledge system, beginning at climber's right, zig-zags up the wall to the col itself. There is some exposure along this ledge system but no real difficulty.

2. Climb to the col between Crescent Spire and the Crescent Towers. This col can be reached directly by scrambling up a loose gully. Alternately you can climb a route on the Crescent Towers such as McTech Arete or Paddle Flake and traverse over the summit of Crescent Spire from left to right.

From the Crescent Spire-Crescent Towers col descend north over easy terrain towards Brenta Spire. Eventually you will a reach a narrowing ridge crest where a short low 5th class downclimb leads to easier terrain and the Brenta Spire-Crescent Spire col.

1 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Brenta Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 9
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Ridge
 9
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
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Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
Definitely the upper limits of 4th class scrambling, certainly some aspects of this route involve low 5th class climbing with minimal exposure. encounters some used webbings and cords where past climbers had repelled. Feb 17, 2015
natsdad  
Climbed the South Ridge of Brenta Spire as a solo scramble years ago, when my climbing partner needed a rest day. It is a beautiful route with exceptional views back toward the main spire and particularly good views of the N.E. Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. There are one or two low-5th class steps - I remember a 5th class downclimb move or two before getting on Brenta Spire proper. I climbed in mountain boots and felt comfortable the whole way. Highly recommended. Sep 9, 2016

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