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Routes in Cougar Crag West

5.6 Free Solo, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bert's Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Big Bird T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Arch, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chris' Face TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster Corner!, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dirty Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Enter Slabman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ernie's Arete T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Grassy Gully, The T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13
Great White Pillar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hidden Finger Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iron Cross Traverse, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mel and Josh's Wild Ride T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mel's Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Original Route direct start variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Original Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oscar the Grouch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Predisposition TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stahn Solo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
There is a Bat in my Backpack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whitewall Route, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Elevation: 484 ft
GPS: 33.342, -117.139 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,238 total · 161/month
Shared By: Lou Cerutti on Jan 15, 2015 with updates from Joshua Reinig
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Climbing permitted, but keep a low profile Details
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The west side of Cougar Crag.

Getting There

Turn left on the approach.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cougar Crag West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Zackary Rehfuss
San Diego, Ca
Zackary Rehfuss   San Diego, Ca
After going to this crag today here are some things to note.

1) The approach is up a the steep hillside next to the fence and through lots of bushes and really loose dirt/rocks. From the gate at the quarry follow the fence line just left of the iron barred gate. Continue up until you see individual faint trails that go to various parts of the crag. BE CAREFUL LOOSE ROCKS AND A HIGHWAY BELOW.

2) The routes don't get climbed that often it seems because they were all full of dirt. On a couple dihedrals the only placements were buried and had to be brushed out. There are some rusty old hangers on some of the routes that probably should be replaced as well as some old pitons, these looked in pretty bad shape so i wouldn't use them. Also, some of the routes can be fairly runout.

3) There are lots of anchor options with larger cams ( BD #1-3) and slings. Be Careful atop sesame street buttress, there are some large flakes that are totally hollow.

4) Some people have said they had problems with the quarry management but every time i have been here no one has bothered me (fingers crossed they don't). Aug 22, 2016
Cougar Crag West lies across the valley from Cougar Crag East. The quarry operation occupies the valley in between. As Zackary states, the approach to CCW begins west of the quarry gate.

The OP's statement on this page ("Turn left on the approach.") is misleading. If you are hiking up to Insecurity Never Wins, on the left side of CCE, you could take the left turn. If you are hiking up to Cougar in Heat and Stranger Danger, you could take the right turn. These directions only apply to CCE, not CCW.

Including Mel's Climb with CCE adds to the confusion. Furthermore, the Whitewall Route is listed on this CCW page, although it is at CCE, 20 feet right of INW. Enter Slabman is the first route you encounter if, at CCE, you "Turn right on the approach." Stahn Solo may also be at CCE

Because CCE and CCW are totally separate crags, situated a half mile apart, I think that the Admin should change the title of this overall area to Cougar Crags (plural). The Admin should also move Mel's Climb to CCW and the Whitewall Route, Enter Slabman, and maybe Stahn Solo to CCE. Dec 26, 2016

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