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Routes in Eldorado

Ekel S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Description

Among the most legendary crags in the Frankenjura, Eldorado is home to a number of classic and sought-after lines. The cliff is a 50-foot wide, 15-feet deep roof, slanted dramatically upwards from right to left, giving the appearance of a breaching whale. The climbing is short and powerful (though one Markus Bock 5.14 traverses leftward along the underside of the roof), requiring aggressive movement and strong fingers. The most significant lines on the wall are a pair of Jerry Moffatt routes. Ekel was the first IX+ in Germany, and Stone Love was one of the first X+’s (and for a time thought to be perhaps XI- or 5.14b), climbing a steep prow of small, sharp pockets. Nightmare is a highly regarded and popular X, culminating in a big move from a deep mono. At a more moderate grade, Wolfgang Gullich’s contribution, No More Babysitting For Neurotic Girls Today, is worth a look if for no other reason than its name!

The cliff faces south, but is steep enough to provide a fair bit of shade when the sun is high. There is a nice playground immediately below the cliff, which includes a mini climbing wall.

Getting There

From Obertrubach, drive west until you see the crag on the right, a few hundred yards past the edge of town. There is a parking lot directly below the cliff.

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