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Routes in Lastoni di Formin

Evergreen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love my Dogs (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nikibi (Torrione Marcella formation) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
North West Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Re Artu (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Shared By: Kristine Hoffman on Nov 30, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath
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Description

Lastoni di Formin is the huge flat topped wall/plateau facing West towards the road below the pass. It consist of multiple named faces (Torrione Marcella, Ponte de Giau, Gran Diadro, Spiz de Mondeval) that are accessed either from the top of the pass (longer walk) or from various parking spots along the road down the hill towards Cortina. The routes are in the 9-14 pitch range on high quality rock with brilliant climbing and range from purely traditional lines to mixed lines to pure sport climbs.

Getting There

On the road 638 coming down from Passo Giau there is a hard right hand hairpin turn followed by a 90 degree left hand turn 50 meters down. At this left hand turn is a parking space for about 6-8 cars on the north side (left if going downhill) of the road. Park here. There is a large pasture across the road with a marked trail (436) along the top side of the pasture that leads up to Lastoni di Formin. Follow path 436 for awhile towards Forcella Giau. If you wish to climb the central buttresses then leaving the trail on a climbers path beneath the wall and heading directly across the meadows left to the base of the buttress. To climb the routes above the pass (Spiz de Mondeval), hike up the hill to the pass and then work up left off the path through the rocks up to the routes.

It is also possible to approach Forcella Giau using a path that traverses directly across from Passo Giau (again path 436) then descends down to the path described here and back up over the pass. This is likely a bit faster approach but a longer return to car.

For the routes on the far left end of the buttress (Torrione Marcella) drive further down the road until you find a large parking spot on the East side of the road that again sits by a small pasture directly across from the routes. Cross this pasture on its top end and stay high to descend then ascend up through the stream gully. Continue following a well worn climbers path to the scree field below the routes.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lastoni di Formin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella f…
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione… 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
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