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Areas in Marmolada Group

Punta Ombretta 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Punta Penia 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Punta Rocca 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Via Ferrata 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 9,076 ft
GPS: 46.442, 11.859 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,481 total, 40/month
Shared By: Kristine Hoffman on Nov 30, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath
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Description

Marmolada is the “Queen of the Dolomites.” This mountain is the highest mountain in the range, has the only permanent glacier in the range (north side) and has the largest sheer wall in the range (south face – 800 meters high, 3 kilometers long) with many famous and ground breaking routes on this face. The climbs here are so big that it is highly recommended you climb with a bivy sac as it is likely you will need one before the climb is over due to both the length of the routes and the descent required. The “best” descent is likely the cable car – 3 sections of tramway leading all the way to the Eastern base of the mountain. However, this tram closes at 4 pm so it can be difficult to catch on the day you start the climb (be sure to bring 20+ euros to use the tram). The other descent requires glacial travel for 3 or more hours (and all the gear and safety issues surrounding this aspect of climbing) making it somewhat unattractive to someone climbing 20-30 pitches of south facing rock. All these descents, except that which goes down the far western ridge back to the South side, take you away from the starting point adding further logistical issues to your plans (basically you should stay in Rifugio Falier or Refugio Contrin and bring only the gear and clothes you will use on the ascent).

Getting There

South Face: For the Western (Left) section of the South face hike into Rifigio Contrin on trail 602 out of Alba (2 km south of Canazei). From here you can hike up over Passo Ombretta to access Marmolada di Penia and you can return to the hut at the end of the climb or to a bivouac on Ombretta pass. For the Central and Eastern portions of the wall (Marmolada di Rocca, Marmolada d'Ombretta) drive to Malga Ciapela (the village where the the Marmolada tram/cable car station is located) and drive up past the camping area to a car park west of town. Hike in 90 minutes to Rifugio Falier and access your routes from there for an early start.

North face mixed routes, via Ferrata and sport climbs: From Canazei drive south east towards Alba (First exit on the round about leaving town) and head up hill towards Passo di Fedaia. Park in the appropriate area to access the routes you desire.

If you intend to use the cable car for descent (which is really by far the best and fastest option - then hitch hike back to car) be sure to bring money. In 2007 it was 10-12 Euros just for one single car descent. It takes three cables go get from the summit of Punta Rocca down to Malga Ciapela.

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