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Torre Piccola di Falzarego

International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Lagazuoi , Fani… > Falzarego pass

Description

Two climbs with the same approach and about the same descent. Both classics and easily combined. Both south facing. The Comici on the Piccola is crowded but spectacular. They afford the perfect combo for moderate solos.

Getting There

Park 1k east of Falzarego Pass at a small resturant. Hike up a path and head east along a road to old ruins from WW1. Hike up past the ruins to the base of the wall. About 30 minutes or more.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
● Torre Piccola di Falzarego We…
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
● Parete Ovest or “Center Route”
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
● Bella E Monella
Sport, Alpine 8 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 12
● South Arete - Via Comici
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Torre Piccola, "via della Guide"
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
● Scoiattoli Direct - Ghedina
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Torre Piccola di Falzarego…
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● Parete Ovest or “Center Rou…
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● Bella E Monella
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 8 pitches
● South Arete - Via Comici
 12
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
● Torre Piccola, "via della G…
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
● Scoiattoli Direct - Ghedina
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 9 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lawn chairs at the resturant and parking lot for the Falzarego Towers. The 'Comici' in the background.
[Hide Photo] Lawn chairs at the resturant and parking lot for the Falzarego Towers. The 'Comici' in the background.
Here's the Kleiner Falzaregoturm after an overnight snowfall; maximum magnification will show a party of 3 on the summit.
[Hide Photo] Here's the Kleiner Falzaregoturm after an overnight snowfall; maximum magnification will show a party of 3 on the summit.
More than one start to this route.
[Hide Photo] More than one start to this route.
The easiest route on the formation is a nice YDS II,5.5. Four pitches.
[Hide Photo] The easiest route on the formation is a nice YDS II,5.5. Four pitches.
Solitary climber atop Kleiner Falzaregoturm
[Hide Photo] Solitary climber atop Kleiner Falzaregoturm
A tied-off Sanduhr (Hourglass), and many are found on the Falzarego Towers.
[Hide Photo] A tied-off Sanduhr (Hourglass), and many are found on the Falzarego Towers.
Near Falzarego Pass; start of the path to Falzarego Towers.
[Hide Photo] Near Falzarego Pass; start of the path to Falzarego Towers.
Grosser Falzaregoturm, West face.
[Hide Photo] Grosser Falzaregoturm, West face.
Falzarego Towers.
[Hide Photo] Falzarego Towers.
Grosser Falzaregoturm (L), and Kleiner Falzaregoturm (R).
[Hide Photo] Grosser Falzaregoturm (L), and Kleiner Falzaregoturm (R).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
[Hide Comment] The Falzarego Towers are a popular destination during periods of colder weather and/or following early season light snowstorms. I climbed the via della Guida on the Kleiner Falzaregoturm under exactly those circumstances. Sep 25, 2013
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
[Hide Comment] The ruins mentioned by RKM in the route description are of an Austrian "lazarret," or military hospital. The Fanis area was the scene of intense fighting between the Austrian Gebirgsjaeger troops and Italian Alpini. Military tunnels honeycomb the area. Oct 13, 2013
Ryan Nevius
Perchtoldsdorf, AT
[Hide Comment] While it's possible to rappel many of the steep bits on the descent, it would be arduous. I would recommend avoiding this summit if you're not comfortable down-climbing exposed, intermittent sections of solid 4th / easy 5th class terrain. Oct 29, 2021