Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Saddle Tower Buttress

Saddle Tower Buttress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1

Description

Saddle Tower Buttress is located in Rough Canyon, a tributary to Taylor Canyon. This route is basically a rim route capped with a 100' tower. With an involved approach, some loose rock and a dearth of fixed gear, the climbing feels remote and plenty wild.

To locate the tower reference Latitude 40's "Moab West" map. Locate point 5738' along the southern rim of Rough Canyon. The tower is located a half mile NW of this point. It can also be identified by a cursory look at google earth. There is a nice toweresque shadow coming off the feature, not to be confused with the two similar points due west of point 5738'.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

Two options. The most straightforward way would be to drive up Taylor, then hike past the Moses group and up into Rough Canyon. This is a distance of about 5 miles each way. We decided to drive out to the rim of Rough Canyon via 313. This requires 4WD, good maps, and some guess work. From 191, head out on 313 towards Dead Horse/I Sky. From the turn off to Dead Horse (The Knoll), continue south towards I Sky for 2.5 miles. Turn right (west) onto a dirt road identified as a 4-way intersection. Drive 1.7 miles on this road until Whitbeck Rock is to your south. Cross a minor drainage and immediately turn right (north). You should now be generally heading towards Beehive Butte. Drive for about 1.5 miles to reach a fork. Turn left, then after about 500' turn left again at a 4-way. This section can be confusing. Drive about .8 miles to another intersection and turn right. You should be headed towards point 5733'. As you drive past this, you will begin to parallel another road to your left (south). Continue beyond its intersection to point 5538'. Just beyond this, good slick rock camping can be found.

From the camp, hike generally SE towards the rim. A good reference is point 5738', hike straight towards this. Saddle Tower Buttress should be in view across the canyon. Spend some time scouting the best descent into the canyon. Fix ropes into a gully with a final rap out from the bottom of it. We pieced this together with an initial 140' rap into the gully, followed by a 30' rap to reach the talus in the gully and then another 150' rap to the base of the cliff band. Bring lots of static ropes! Then simply hike down talus to the canyon floor and up the other side to the base of the tower.

1 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Saddle Tower Buttress Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments

More About Saddle Tower Buttress

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Saddle Tower Buttress (6)

Most Popular · Newest