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The Anonymous Arete Boulder
Utah
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> E Gate Boulders
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
One of the gems in the often deserted East Gate area a mere stones throw away from the "loved to death" gate boulders. Quartz monzonite rock, and overall of better quality than the gate boulders!
Getting There
Park at the Gate parking lot and head up the trail that departs from the north east corner and into the forest. Head up slope a bit and then traverse east for approx 50 yds, and then head up slope again, aiming for a cluster of small maple trees growing next to an overhanging arete like feature on the west side of a large boulder that has a huge south face slab above a steep slope. 2 min approach.
Routes from Left to Right
[Hide Photo] Sick problem! A left toe hook really locks you in through the slopey section before making that big right throw!