The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
This is a fairly slabby wall high up a hill in the upper canyon. The routes are all fairly moderate in nature and you are not likely to run into other people. You may see people down at the East Colfax area a long ways below and across the river. The wall faces south and gets a lot of sun. The rock is the typical type of rock found in the canyon.
Park in the same spot as for all the crags west of tunnel six. Both of the newest guidebooks list the parking as 12.8 miles up the canyon from the intersection of US 6, CO 93, and CO 58. The parking is on the right after a guard rail.
From the parking, hike east next to the creek until you reach a tyrolean which starts at a tree (right at East Colfax crag). Cross the creek on the tyrolean, and head east next to the stream. You will pass the Armory crag and come to a faint trail which heads up the hill to your left. Some cairns mark the course of the trail. The trail goes up to the Conspiracy Cliff, and this wall is to the right.
Bat Alert
Per Jess Presso: beware of bats! There is a family of bats living in the flake above the crux of A.C. Separation.
Kid/dog caution
The left two routes require a bit of scrambling to gain the sloping base. Use caution with dogs and/or kids, particularly in snowy conditions.
[Hide Comment] I really liked the climbs that I did up here, but the approach was heinous. No trail to speak off, loose rock, and lots of vegetation on the way up. Took a longer route back down which was better in regards to loose rock but still had a lot of bushwhacking. The climbing was really good up there, just not sure if it was worth the hike up.
Jun 28, 2015
[Hide Comment] Easy there, 2chains. These climbs are fun, and it's a great way to avoid crowds. Put up just one quality line in the canyon, and you'll see how hard it is to clean routes. How about a little less trolling.
Aug 30, 2016
[Hide Comment] Beware of bats! There is a family of bats living in the flake above the crux of A.C. Separation. Please respect them by either going left an avoiding the flake or not doing the route. The bottom half up to, and including, the crux is shared with Radial Nerve, so just do that instead. Fun crux. Approach is slippery, even without snow. Wear appropriate shoes.
Aug 16, 2017
[Hide Comment] It's a lot of fun! Nice and secluded. Don't forget to check yourself for ticks, we found a few crawling on us after the approach.
May 4, 2018
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
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