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Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

Boaty's Birthday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Family Picnic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flippin the bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fuck Rumney T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golf Ball Sized Urethra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineers Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schistorectomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Traction Splint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Elevation: 2,248 ft
GPS: 44.39, -72.85 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,646 total, 175/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Nov 5, 2014
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
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Description

The center of the cliff contains a few quality walls. Home to the popular Family Picnic and Father's Day and new climbs of Fuck Rumney, Breaking the Wishbone, Radius, and Ulna.

Getting There


If taking the sugar shack approach:


When you get to the large clearing, locate a very odd looking and tall stump. It's about 10 feet high. Cut into the woods following an easy contour of land. After a few minutes, trend right until the trees thin out. Trend left looking for a huge highball boulder. Cut into the boulders here and if all goes well you should end under Golf Ball Sized Urethra and , just left of Family Picnic.

If taking the Timberline approach:

Follow yellow flagging across the stream and up through the woods staying near the boulders. Don't get drawn to the right away from the cliff where it's a little easier. Be on the lookout for a huge pointed highball boulder. Cut into the boulders here and if all goes well you should end under Golf Ball Sized Urethra and just left of Family Picnic.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Cliff Routes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Family Picnic
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flippin the bird
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Family Picnic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Flippin the bird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
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