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Crosier Mountain Crags

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Canyon
Warning Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 DetailsDrop down

Description

Crosier Mountain Crags are located in a beautiful foothills setting reminiscent of Lumpy Ridge but without the crowds. They lie roughly across the NF Big Thompson valley from the Monastery. Located on USFS land they provide Big Thompson climbers with one to three pitch routes ranging in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.12. The rock is granite, much of it bulletproof, but with areas of lesser quality stone containing quartz crystals and mica. In many places, the rock is covered with chickenheads and alligator skin type plates. Some of the slabs are as good as any in northern Colorado.

The crags face south thus tend to be hot in the summer (though there are shaded areas) and because of the elevation tend to be cold in the winter. Spring and fall provide the best weather but a sunny and still winter day can be nice.

Most of the routes are mixed bolts and gear with a few sport routes and some pure trad lines. Most of the mixed gear routes have the cruxes protected by bolts. The majority of climbs are equipped with rap anchors or have anchors nearby. ***A 60m and occasionally a 70m ROPE IS MANDATORY FOR MANY RAPPELS.***

A standard rack consists of a set of nuts and cams ranging from TCUs to three inches. Occasionally micro nuts, tricams and Loweballs are helpful.

There is a large area of boulders and short cliffs below the main crag and scattered on the surrounding hills that should prove of interest to boulderers.

A few routes with unknown history are located on the east slab of Main Crag and on Trailside Crag. There is also a crag you walk under about one mile from the trailhead (Approach Crag) that has a few unknown bolted routes (see photo). Most of the remaining development occurred in 2013 through 2015.

Getting There

From Drake, drive 2.2 miles west on CR 43 towards Glen Haven to the Crosier Mountain Garden Gate Trailhead. This is located on the south side of the road 5.9 miles east of Glen Haven.

From the trailhead, follow the Crosier Mountain Trail about two miles, first east then back west, crossing a large meadow where the crags become readily visible to the northwest. About one mile from the trailhead you will pass under Approach Crag.

The easiest approach to climbs on the east side of Main Crag (from Levitation to Auspicious Sunrise) is to cross the large meadow on the approach. When you first enter the meadow head for the left edge of the buttress right of and behind the Main Crag (see photo). There is a cairn at the edge of the meadow with more behind it leading up the hill.

To reach Trailside Crag, continue up the trail passing a jumble of short cliffs and boulders. The crag is located in the trees about 100 feet north of the trail shortly after passing the cliffs and boulders.

The easiest approach to the left side of Main Crag and West Crag is to continue past Trailside Crag until just before the trail crosses the drainage and heads up the hill to the south. At this point follow cairns (these may have been knocked down) up to the right until you see a double cairn just below a big down tree. From the double cairn follow more cairns back right to reach the Main Crag at the base of Squat Tower. To reach the West Crag, continue angling up and left from the double cairn, over the down tree, following cairns to the base of the crag. To reach the Upper Tier of Main Crag follow the West Crag trail about 100 yards past the double cairn until under an obvious "nose". Head up to the cliff and follow a trail along the base.

The approach takes about one hour.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crosier Mountain Crags.
[Hide Photo] Crosier Mountain Crags.
The approach to the eastern half of Main Crag. The arrow points to first cairn. Note Totem Tower on the left skyline.
[Hide Photo] The approach to the eastern half of Main Crag. The arrow points to first cairn. Note Totem Tower on the left skyline.
Main Crag, Crosier Mountain Crags.
[Hide Photo] Main Crag, Crosier Mountain Crags.
West Crag.
[Hide Photo] West Crag.
Twixt the Trees.
[Hide Photo] Twixt the Trees.
Grace and Power.
[Hide Photo] Grace and Power.
The crag above the approach trail approximately one mile from the trailhead that has several unknown bolt lines.
[Hide Photo] The crag above the approach trail approximately one mile from the trailhead that has several unknown bolt lines.
Gator Skin.
[Hide Photo] Gator Skin.
Dede on Pinch Me arete.
[Hide Photo] Dede on Pinch Me arete.
Grace and Power.
[Hide Photo] Grace and Power.
Barn Door Ballet.
[Hide Photo] Barn Door Ballet.
Barn Door Ballet.
[Hide Photo] Barn Door Ballet.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Really great stone up there, wish there was more of it around the vicinity, way better than the Monastery. Mar 15, 2017
Cara Hubbell
Arvada, CO
[Hide Comment] The picture showing the first cairn is not taken from the perspective of the approach trail. If you are on the trail, the picture makes it look like you should head to the far right of the mountain, but you should head left (as in, stay on the trail). We ended up just crossing the meadow off trail and going way far right before realizing that was completely the wrong way :/ Jul 26, 2020
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] There are two approaches, one across the meadow to the right side of the wall and the other that continues down the trail to the left side of the wall. Jul 27, 2020