Elevation: 958 ft
GPS: 37.646, -83.718 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,612 total · 376/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Oct 20, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

This crag is located in the Flat Holler area of the PMRP. It hosts a wide variety of routes from 5.8 to 5.12 on mostly vertical rock. Most of the lines are sport however there are a few very good looking trad lines. This crag gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Getting There

From the Flat Holler Parking lot, walk back towards the entrance to the parking lot and then turn a sharp right up the oil road. Follow the oil road until it ends and a trail starts next to the Velo sign. In two more minutes, you should come to the wall underneath On Beyond Velodrome, with its large hueco about halfway up the wall. There is a set of stair steps to take to the left side of the crag. Just follow the cliff base to the right for the right side of the crag. To get Velo Pinnacles, take the stair up and then follow the cliff line to the left. Look for a trail that cuts off left and follow it. Then contour around the pinnacles until you go right and squeeze through a small gap in the rock. Scramble through a few more squeezes between boulders until you find the bolts of Lighting Rod Arete.

Approach time 10 minutes.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Velo Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Krypton
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 130
Dura-Ace
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 32
Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 143
Lanterne Rouge
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 94
Ultegra
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Tourist Attractions
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Road Rash
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 54
Real Girls Don't Pumptrack
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 48
The Century
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
House of the Flying Squirrel
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 109
Lightning Rod Arete
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Power Shortage
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Double Century
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Share The Lain
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
A Cat Amongst the Pigeons
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Krypton
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dura-Ace
 130
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm
 32
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lanterne Rouge
 143
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ultegra
 94
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Tourist Attractions
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Road Rash
 21
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Real Girls Don't Pumptrack
 54
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Century
 48
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
House of the Flying Squirrel
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lightning Rod Arete
 109
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Power Shortage
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Double Century
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Share The Lain
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
A Cat Amongst the Pigeons
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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