Elevation: 2,342 ft
GPS: 43.27, -74.568 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,246 total · 239/month
Shared By: Benjamin Brooke on Oct 18, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

Statebrook is a newly developed cliff (2013/2014) located in the town of Arietta. The cliff faces northwest which makes it a great hot weather destination. There are 30+ routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11 in difficulty, as well as a few open projects. The climbing is single pitch with a mix of crack and face climbing up to 100'. The cliff features a bit of everything: thin technical face climbing, roof pulling, hand cracks, OW cracks and even a full length chimney. All climbs have two bolt anchors.

I would expect to run into a party or two on nice weather weekends but, as with most Adk crags, I wouldn't expect to ever see a crowd.

The rock quality is very good. Solid and grippy similar to nearby Lost T cliff. Many of the routes are still a little bit dirty, but should clean up with some more traffic. I would say bring a wire brush to be on the safe side. This is not to take away from the massive effort the Arietta Team has done to make Statebrook easy to access, safe and an all around fun place to climb. I'd like to see a pic of the place before development began.

There is plenty of information out there with full route descriptions and directions to the cliff. The Arietta Team has posted a downloadable PDF file here: thomannengineering.com/arie…

Adirondack Rock has information as well:
adirondackrock.com/newroute…

When I went I just downloaded the PDF in my phone and brought it to the crag. It was accurate and pretty freaking funny.

The fact that I'm even posting this on MP is a testament to my own boredom, stuck inside on this miserable, rainy Saturday. I guess it does allow for people to post there own pictures and opinions, which is better than nothing when the weather sucks.

Getting There

Let the fun begin. The parking is on the west shoulder of route 10. Coming from the south this is 7.3 miles north of the intersection of route 10 and route 29A. The key landmark is a driveway on the east side of 10 that drops down to a small cabin and lean to. Park directly across the road from this. If you pass a bright red log cabin on the right turn around. The first cabin can be a little tough to see. Pick up the trail on the same side as you park and follow it. After a few minutes cross a snowmobile trail. Follow the well defined path for about 35 minutes reaching the cliff near the left end.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Statebrook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Sully's Success
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
The Success of Sully's Bride
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 17
The Inverted Englishman
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Hollie's High Step
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Bis…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
The Boy Scout Leader Likes Me
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Berlys Arête
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 14
The Priest Kept My Underwear
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb)
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
[Redacted]
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Monsters Inc
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Three Lions
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Batman has it in for Robin
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Lost Boys
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sully's Success
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
The Success of Sully's Bride
 17
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Inverted Englishman
 17
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Hollie's High Step
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Butter My Butt And Call Me…
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Boy Scout Leader Likes Me
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Berlys Arête
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Priest Kept My Underwear
 14
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Bipolar Express (Don's Long…
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
[Redacted]
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Monsters Inc
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Three Lions
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Batman has it in for Robin
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR
Lost Boys
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
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