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Routes in Statebrook

Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berlys ArĂȘte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Lions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unnamed Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Statebrook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 2,342 ft
GPS: 43.27, -74.568 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,046 total · 128/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Oct 18, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

Statebrook is a newly developed cliff (2013/2014) located in the town of Arietta. The cliff faces northwest which makes it a great hot weather destination. There are 30+ routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11 in difficulty, as well as a few open projects. The climbing is single pitch with a mix of crack and face climbing up to 100'. The cliff features a bit of everything: thin technical face climbing, roof pulling, hand cracks, OW cracks and even a full length chimney. All climbs have two bolt anchors.

I would expect to run into a party or two on nice weather weekends but, as with most Adk crags, I wouldn't expect to ever see a crowd.

The rock quality is very good. Solid and grippy similar to nearby Lost T cliff. Many of the routes are still a little bit dirty, but should clean up with some more traffic. I would say bring a wire brush to be on the safe side. This is not to take away from the massive effort the Arietta Team has done to make Statebrook easy to access, safe and an all around fun place to climb. I'd like to see a pic of the place before development began.

There is plenty of information out there with full route descriptions and directions to the cliff. The Arietta Team has posted a downloadable PDF file here: thomannengineering.com/arie…

Adirondack Rock has information as well:
adirondackrock.com/newroute…

When I went I just downloaded the PDF in my phone and brought it to the crag. It was accurate and pretty freaking funny.

The fact that I'm even posting this on MP is a testament to my own boredom, stuck inside on this miserable, rainy Saturday. I guess it does allow for people to post there own pictures and opinions, which is better than nothing when the weather sucks.

Getting There

Let the fun begin. The parking is on the west shoulder of route 10. Coming from the south this is 7.3 miles north of the intersection of route 10 and route 29A. The key landmark is a driveway on the east side of 10 that drops down to a small cabin and lean to. Park directly across the road from this. If you pass a bright red log cabin on the right turn around. The first cabin can be a little tough to see. Pick up the trail on the same side as you park and follow it. After a few minutes cross a snowmobile trail. Follow the well defined path for about 35 minutes reaching the cliff near the left end.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Statebrook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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On two mid-week visits in July 2015 we kept looking at each other after getting off the climbs here going, "THAT was a great climb!" How is this place not more frequented? It's home of a series of really excellent 5.8's, great off-width/ face climb combinations, a CLASSIC moderate chimney climb (for NY State and the Northeast), and a whole bunch of hard face climbs. And the guys who developed this place did a FANTASTIC job bolting routes, putting drop-ins where you need them, and clearing and cleaning lines. Hats off and thanks for that. Bring a wrench to tighten the occassional bolt--it's a new area. Jul 23, 2015
Good directions in the online guide; trail was easy to follow. Many THANKS to the crew that developed this fine cliff! It's a significant addition to ADK climbing. I'll be back!

Just a thought - bring a wrench. The bolts are new and we found a couple loose nuts (6th bolt in the Sully's chimney, and one of the drop-ins at the right-most route).

Also, the cliff faces NW and doesn't get the sun until around 3 PM, so it's a good spot for hot days. Jul 13, 2015

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