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Routes in The Mallery Boulder

Description

Maybe 50 feet from the small parking lot, along the right side of the trail to the Orange Crush cliff (just before it heads steeply up the hill) is this large boulder that looks a bit like a climbing shoe, well maybe a very blocky high top trad shoe that has been left in the trunk for a while.

The tallest portion, in the past, before common use of crash pads, used to have two very short bolted routes by John Mallery. The bolts have since been removed except perhaps for one anchor bolt. If you use the bolt, make sure you back it up, as it has probably seen better days.

The well traveled Dr. Mallery is one of the characters of early Rumney, who recognized the sport climbing potential of the area, challenged the ossified traditions of the past promulgated in North Conway and pushed the grade to a higher level.

Getting There

From the small parking lot take the trail towards Orange Crush and it will be along the trail on your right, just before the trail really starts heading up the hill.

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Does anybody remember the names of John's bolted lines here or some history? I asked Den Dana (the early Rumney guidebook author) and he keyed me into the fact that there were two bolted lines, not just one, but he didn't remember any names. Dec 12, 2014

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