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Routes in Trick Or Treat Wall

Gloria's Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Starlight, Starbright T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Twilight's Last Gleaming T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Description

This is the middle and tallest part of the Deep Creek Crags. It has several routes on the left side, some blank/mud-like, very tall rock in the middle with no routes, and some routes on the right.

Getting There

Trick or Treat Wall is approached from above. For climbs on its left side, park at Deep Creek Crag's west end parking (this is also parking for the West End Cliffs). For routes on its right side, park at east end parking (which is also parking for The Arena).

In either case, walk one third to one half a mile south from parking to reach a descent around the (left or right) end of Trick Or Treat Wall.

3 Total Climbs

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There are a whole series of routes in the middle of this wall that receive strange ratings in the John Jackson guidebook. From "No Name Corner," extending right to "Tourist Attraction," most of the routes listed receive 5.8 or 5.9 ratings, but then include a comment in the guidebook about "V2 boulder starts" and the like (there are huge caves where these routes start; getting over the caves look like the route cruxes in each case).

As I've always understood the Yosemite Decimal System, a rating is based on all of a route, isn't it? Shouldn't these routes receive ratings like 5.11c, or 5.8 A0, or similar, appropriate ratings? If most of the route is then easier, there are ways of indication that in the text or in a topo (or photo-topo).

End of observation/mini-rant. Oct 9, 2014

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