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Areas in Black Crag

First Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Main Wall 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Second Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 1,097 ft
GPS: 22.258, 114.186 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,762 total · 62/month
Shared By: Brian Boyd on Oct 7, 2014
Admins: Brian Boyd, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
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Description [Edit]

Black Crag is a recently developed sport climbing area. The combination of easy access, spectacular views, and a wealth of moderate climbs means that the area can be very crowded at times.

A typical day at Black Crag

The cliff is south facing. Most routes are the sun, with shaded belays. If you are looking for summer shade, early morning or late afternoon are your best bets.

The routes are on high quality granite. Expect less than vertical face climbing, with the occasional friction slab or roof interspersed. For the hardcore, there are a couple of routes that can be led on gear -- Black and Tan and Black Moth.

The granite is soft in places, particularly the center of the main wall, where the more difficult routes are located. This area also stays damp after rainfall, and several holds have broken off. So, please avoid climbing these routes if they are not dry.

As this is a new area, there is still quite a bit of loose rock, including football to basketball sized boulders, on several routes.
View from Black Crag
Route repair

Getting There [Edit]

Black Crag, and the companion Blacks Link wall, are found on the south side of Mount Nicholson. You can take bus 6 or 66 from Admiralty (Pacific Place 3), and then walk from the HK tennis center. Or, taxi to Blacks Link Road and walk to the end, continue on the pedestrian road.

Turn right at culvert #63. A short trail leads to a handline, and the first wall is to the left of the handline. Follow the trail up and right to the second wall. A roped traverse to the left takes you to the main wall. Total approach time is about ten minutes to the main wall.
Turnoff from the pedestrian road

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