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Routes in Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Navajo Band - East)

5.7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 Hand Jams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Leash Harness T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slanty Hands T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walkin' On Air T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wolcott Great Roof aka Bob Scarpelli Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Description

The Wolcott Navajo Bands - (East and West) are the lower, red Navajo bands that are split by Milk Creek. Milk Creek is the (sometimes) dry desert wash that drains into the Eagle River from the north, located west (downstream) of the main Wolcott Boulders area on US Highway 6. The climbing on these Navajo bands is better than it looks and is reminiscent of the famous crack climbs of the Utah desert. Although short (50'-90'), the climbs are mostly beautiful dihedrals with fingers-hand sized cracks that require real desert techniques. It is a fun, challenging area! I established 3 new climbs here years ago and would like to record the information here....
Trestle and CMC areas are off limits. Details

Getting There

The best approach is to park for the main Wolcott bouldering area off of US Hwy 6. Walk through the campground upstream, and take the trestle crossing approach as for the upper Dakota bands of rock. Walk further down the tracks to the Milk Creek drainage. There is an established trail to the East side of Milk Creek that brings you right under the Wolcott Navajo Band - East. Expect a 20 minute hike.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Milk Creek (aka Wolcott Navajo Band - East)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

This is a nice, little, desert crack crag a couple hours closer than the alternatives and great for splitting up a drive.

The 10a left/next to Walkin' on Air is quite good, thin hands. Closer to the tracks and in between the Roof and Walkin' are a thin hands/lieback, 8+, and a 7 dihedral which shares a start with a great 5.9. The 9 is quite varied with OW, hands to fists, lieback, and a couple roofs. Several other routes are around but appear less traveled and beyond my pay-grade.

The webbing at the bolted anchors atop all is pretty ratty, so I'd recommend bringing extra for replacement. Aug 30, 2016

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