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Elevation: 7,400 ft 2,256 m
GPS: 38.7938, -119.99575
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,282 total · 476/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Sep 22, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

This shows the exact location of the parking for our mobile MP users.

This area is in the Eldorado National Forest, so back country camping without a permit, and drilling bolts for climbing protection both seem to be free and legal here.

Getting There Suggest change

Parking Area

Upon entering Christmas Valley on Highway 89 from 50, drive a few miles until the road begins to curve as it approaches Luther Pass. There will be a sign to the Big Meadow Trailhead and a parking lot with a bathroom. There are also several turnouts along the highway near the lot.

New Approach Trail - Completed 6/6/2021

- - Approach map link - - (hey admin, only change here is the link itself)

From the parking area, walk back up the paved road (past where you drove in from the highway) and through the metal gate. There is a large area map on the right and the Tahoe Rim Trail continues behind it, then crosses a nicely built foot bridge (est 2019).

Head over the bridge and in just a minute or two depart the TRT taking a Left onto a trail marked by a cairn. The trail is small but maintained. - thanks Simon 

Once nearing the top, the trail will pass over a short section of slab and reappear (marked by cairns). No need to go up the slab anymore, easier to continue across and rejoin the trail.

After a few switchbacks you'll arrive at the base of the crag viewing Jane Spy 5.7

Overall the hike is moderately strenuous, lots of uphill, and takes about 30-40 minutes from the parking lot. ~1 mile.

Old trail used a fallen log to cross the creek and went directly uphill on steepish slab near the end of the trail.

Old trail is closed off really nicely. The new (and much better) trail is quite obvious and intuitive unless you’ve made a strong habit of taking the log bridge and steep uphill slab.

Elevation gain is about 500-550 feet from parking area to base of the crag (Jane Spy 5.7)

24 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Luther Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 98
Jane Spy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
Beer and a Hot Dog, Two Bucks
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
See Thru
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 99
Just Jerry
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
Mixed Emotions
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Widow Maker
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Just Cause
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 49
Plane Crash
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Jacko
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Fire Starter
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Virginia
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Undertaker
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 44
Just Do It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Original Route
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 26
Jackass
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jane Spy Luther Spires - Main…
 98
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Beer and a Hot Dog, Two Bucks Right Hand Spires
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
See Thru Luther Spires - Main…
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Just Jerry Right Hand Spires
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Mixed Emotions Luther Spires - Main…
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Widow Maker Widow Maker
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Just Cause Luther Spires - Main…
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Plane Crash Luther Spires - Main…
 49
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Jacko Right Hand Spires
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Fire Starter Luther Spires - Main…
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Virginia Shire Spire
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Undertaker Widow Maker
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Just Do It Luther Spires - Main…
 44
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Original Route Shire Spire
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Jackass Luther Spires - Main…
 26
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Luther Spires »

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