Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 38.794, -119.996 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,377 total · 585/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Sep 22, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: The Caldor Fire is actively burning-DO NOT JEOPARDIZE ACCESS BY ATTEMPTING TO ACCESS CLOSED AREAS. Details

Description

This shows the exact location of the parking for our mobile MP users.

This area is in the Eldorado National Forest, so back country camping without a permit, and drilling bolts for climbing protection both seem to be free and legal here.

Getting There

Parking Area

Upon entering Christmas Valley on Highway 89 from 50, drive a few miles until the road begins to curve as it approaches Luther Pass. There will be a sign to the Big Meadow Trailhead and from there, the turnout is about .45 miles on the left side of the road. - thanks Brian

New Approach Trail - Completed 6/6/2021

- - Approach map link - - (hey admin, only change here is the link itself)

From the parking area, approach trail veers Right, joining the Tahoe Rim Trail, then crosses a nicely built foot bridge (est 2019) which you can see from the trail split.

Head over the bridge and in a minute or two depart the TRT taking a Left onto a trail marked by a cairn. - thanks Simon 

Once nearing the top, the trail will pass over a short section of slab and reappear (marked by cairns).

After a few switchbacks you'll arrive at the base of the crag viewing Jane Spy 5.7

Old trail used a fallen log to cross the creek and went directly uphill on steepish slab near the end of the trail.

Old trail is closed off really nicely. The new (and much better) trail is quite obvious and intuitive unless you’ve made a strong habit of taking the log bridge and steep uphill slab.

Elevation gain is about 500-550 feet from parking area to base of the crag (Jane Spy 5.7)

24 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Luther Spires Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Luther Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 82
Jane Spy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Beer and a Hot Dog, Two Bucks
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
See Thru
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 88
Just Jerry
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
Mixed Emotions
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Widow Maker
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Just Cause
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 39
Plane Crash
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Jacko
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
Fire Starter
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Virginia
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Undertaker
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 36
Just Do It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Original Route
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Jackass
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jane Spy Luther Spires - Main…
 82
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Beer and a Hot Dog, Two Bucks Right Hand Spires
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
See Thru Luther Spires - Main…
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Just Jerry Right Hand Spires
 88
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Mixed Emotions Luther Spires - Main…
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Widow Maker Widow Maker
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Just Cause Luther Spires - Main…
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Plane Crash Luther Spires - Main…
 39
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Jacko Right Hand Spires
 35
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Fire Starter Luther Spires - Main…
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Virginia Shire Spire
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Undertaker Widow Maker
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Just Do It Luther Spires - Main…
 36
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Original Route Shire Spire
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Jackass Luther Spires - Main…
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Luther Spires »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos