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Areas in Luther Spires

Luther Spires 9 / 14 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22

Description [Suggest Change]

This shows the exact location of the parking for our mobile MP users.

This area is in the Eldorado National Forest, so back country camping without a permit, and drilling bolts for climbing protection both seem to be free and legal here.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

"Upon entering Christmas Valley on Highway 89 from 50, drive a few miles until the road begins to curve as it approaches Luther Pass. There will be a sign to the Big Meadow Trailhead and from there, the turnout is about .45 miles on the left side of the road.

You will know you're in the right spot if you find the large boulder lining the pullout with a hole drilled in it the perfect diameter for a beer bottle." (moved here from Brian's original page)

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Luther Spires

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 53
Jane Spy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 43
Beer and a Hotdog, Two Bucks
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 61
Just Jerry
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Mixed Emotions
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Widow Maker
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Plane Crash
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Jacko
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Fire Starter
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Virginia
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Just Do It
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Original Route
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 9
Jackass
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jane Spy Luther Spires
 53
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Beer and a Hotdog, Two Bucks Luther Spires
 43
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Just Jerry Luther Spires
 61
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Mixed Emotions Luther Spires
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Widow Maker Luther Spires
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Plane Crash Luther Spires
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jacko Luther Spires
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Fire Starter Luther Spires
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Virginia Luther Spires
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Just Do It Luther Spires
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Original Route Luther Spires
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Jackass Luther Spires
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Sport, TR
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AdamG
Berkeley, CA
AdamG   Berkeley, CA
I must be an idiot because I could not find this place for the life of me. Sports ltd. were kind enough to help me out but I was still in the wrong place. When driving here, after the Big Meadow Trail-head sign, there are two turn offs on the left. You want to park at the second one (the eastern end of the clearing). The trail is very visible from here. Aug 9, 2012
Conor O
Fort Collins, Colorado
Conor O   Fort Collins, Colorado
This place is very hard to find I would have to agree with that! The beer bottle in the boulder is landmark that you're in the vicinity. After that you will need to follow the trail up and right after that, and pass over a stream and then hike uphill for at least 20 minutes. Camping is free and good to go in this area as well, there is a nice little spot for a 2 person tent right at the base of the crag. Jan 3, 2016
Carleen  





Followed previous directions and added some photos for clarification. Park .4 miles North of Big Meadow Trail head on 89 North. Go directly perpendicular from the road and you will hit the bike trail. Take a right on trail. When you come to a tree with a blue arrow, hang a left. If you go straight you will hit a wooden bridge and that is not the correct path. If you hang a left, you will run into the big tree that crosses the steam. Walk across the tree and follow the path. Steep incline with switch backs up the mountain. You will come into an area where you climb in between two rocks. You will walk directly into Luther Spires. 5,7-5.10 sport climbs that are well bolted. Oct 20, 2016

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