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Sugarloaf

New York > Adirondacks > G: Indian Lake Region

Description

500 ft slab, faces SE. Granite friction climbing. Consult Adirondack Rock 2nd Ed. for route descriptions.

Getting There

About 8 miles down Cedar River Rd. See ADK guidebook for details. Approach is moderate bushwack 15-20 minutes. Lower slab is mostly vegetated and routes can start out mossy, dirty, and/or tree-studded. But persevere and you will find solid, grippy pink granite once you're above the trees. The rock quality here might just be the best of all the ADK slabs. Given the obscure nature of the base, routes can be difficult to locate; GPS might just salvage your day (coordinates in the guidebook). I have posted some photos of a few of the routes to help you locate these.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
 1
Magic Carpet Ride
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Sole Fusion
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Fistful of Stoppers
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Superman Flake
Trad 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
 1
Return to Sender
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 1
Deja View
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Soul Confusion
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Valar Dohaeris
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Dreadnaught
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
The Dark Side
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 3
Heroes
Trad 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 2
Tier Pressure
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Magic Carpet Ride
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad 4 pitches
Sole Fusion
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Fistful of Stoppers
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Superman Flake
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Return to Sender
 1
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Deja View
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 3 pitches
Soul Confusion
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Valar Dohaeris
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Dreadnaught
 1
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
The Dark Side
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Heroes
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Tier Pressure
 2
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the start of the trail for sole fusion. Sorry for the blurry photo; it didn't appear blurry on my phone!<br>
<br>
Follow the pink. Cairns are stacked every now and then.
[Hide Photo] This is the start of the trail for sole fusion. Sorry for the blurry photo; it didn't appear blurry on my phone! Follow the pink. Cairns are stacked every now and then.
Panorama of the slab from Cedar River Rd.
[Hide Photo] Panorama of the slab from Cedar River Rd.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
[Hide Comment] Went up today. It . Is amazing how much the cliff opens up with the leaves down and other brush dead. Much better views of the cliff. Can scope lines and really appreciate the loaf. Nov 4, 2014