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Routes in The Devil's Chimney Cliff

Promised Land, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 181 ft
GPS: 51.179, -4.674 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Nick Russell on Sep 14, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell
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Description

A dark, forboding cliff tucked away in the South of Jenny's cove. The situation is impressive, the Devil's Chimney leering in from the West, the tottering Devil's Tower to the South and the incoming tide approaching from the North. Your escape back to the plateau is guarded by a smooth, black, greasy wall towering 80m above you, bristling with overhangs at half height and lichen above that.

The emphasis here is on commitment and a sense of adventure.

Getting There

From just South of half way wall and before the Cheeses take a vague path seawards. Descend the grassy slopes until you can see the Devil's Tower, tenuously attached to the mainland. To its West there is a cluster of stakes, from which a 70m abseil down a grassy spur gets you to the boulder beach below the cliff. Accessible for about 2 hours either side of low tide, but factor in time for the bottom of the routes to dry out a bit.

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