Elevation: 2,004 ft
GPS: 43.221, -74.382 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,259 total · 108/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 11, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

Description

This cliff has a good concentration of difficult cracks, including one of the best cracks in the park, Release the Kraken. The rock is high-quality, similar to that of Lost Hunters Cliff.

The cliff is wide and has two distinct sections. On the left end is a peninsula of rock with cliffs on three sides (called The Peninsula). Behind it is a box canyon with three high-quality routes (What The Eft and two others). The approach trail comes here first.

Walk right on ledges along the base of the cliff to reach the right end (the Main Wall), which is 100'-tall, sheer and slightly overhanging. Release the Kraken is the obvious right-leaning crack that breaks the tallest part of the wall. Left of this is the distinctive left-facing corner Bent Hickory.

Getting There

From Caroga Lake, go east on county route 112, then east on county route 125 to Pinnacle Road. Turn left (north) and follow Pinnacle Road to its end, and the trailhead. Follow the trail towards Chase Lake to the height of land. About 100' past a boulder on the right, turn left and bushwhack northeast through flat terrain for [roughly] 20 minutes. Eventually, go straight uphill to the cliff.

There is some flagging and a few cairns on the approach. In the winter of 2014, there was considerable deadfall in the forest, at times obscuring the once-well-defined approach trail.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pinnacle Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Black Lung
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Alien Umbrella
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
What The Eft
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Release the Kraken
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Lung
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Alien Umbrella
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
What The Eft
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Release the Kraken
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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