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Routes in Pinnacle Mountain

Alien Umbrella T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Lung T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Buzz Off T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Feeding the Rat T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Release the Kraken T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
What The Eft T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 2,004 ft
GPS: 43.221, -74.382 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 11, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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This cliff has a good concentration of difficult cracks, including one of the best cracks in the park, Release the Kraken. The rock is high-quality, similar to that of Lost Hunters Cliff.

The cliff is wide and has two distinct sections. On the left end is a peninsula of rock with cliffs on three sides (called The Peninsula). Behind it is a box canyon with three high-quality routes (What The Eft and two others). The approach trail comes here first.

Walk right on ledges along the base of the cliff to reach the right end (the Main Wall), which is 100'-tall, sheer and slightly overhanging. Release the Kraken is the obvious right-leaning crack that breaks the tallest part of the wall. Left of this is the distinctive left-facing corner Bent Hickory.

Getting There

From Caroga Lake, go east on county route 112, then east on county route 125 to Pinnacle Road. Turn left (north) and follow Pinnacle Road to its end, and the trailhead. Follow the trail towards Chase Lake to the height of land. About 100' past a boulder on the right, turn left and bushwhack northeast through flat terrain for [roughly] 20 minutes. Eventually, go straight uphill to the cliff.

There is some flagging and a few cairns on the approach. In the winter of 2014, there was considerable deadfall in the forest, at times obscuring the once-well-defined approach trail.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pinnacle Mountain

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We went looking for this cliff a few weeks ago. At some point the tape markers seemed to peter out. Perhaps a critical tree fell down, or maybe we just got confused, or both. In any case we found ourselves wandering in the woods, so I dug out a roll of white climbing tape and began leaving markers of my own, to find our way back. If you head out this way, ignore the white tape! It doesn't lead anywhere.
This looks like a killer crag, hope to find it some other time. Oct 10, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
Peter Young: You can, but you have to work a little. For the routes at the Peninsula, walk/bushwhack left in front of the outer face of the peninsula, then back right to a ledge above the routes. A short rappel will get you to an anchor. For the Main Face, walk right into the chimney, make a couple 5th class moves, then walk to the top. The Kraken tree is accessible by walking. The other routes will require a rappel to safely reach an anchor.

So, yes, "reasonable", but not trivial. Definitely not as easy as, say, Lost T; more on par with Lost Hunters or Chatiemac. May 9, 2017
Is there reasonable access to the top for building top rope anchors? May 8, 2017
tetrault   CT
Some more info about the approach:

About 10 minutes into Chase Lake Trail, you will pass over a ~4 foot wide wooden bridge crossing a stream.

At the 6th red "Foot Trail" marker (only counting the ones that are facing you) after the bridge, which will be on your right, make a 90 degree left turn into the woods at a ~3 foot high splintered stump.

As noted in the description, follow pink/orange flagging tape wrapped around trees. As of 7/31/15, the climbers trail is very well marked and easy to follow. Jul 10, 2015
One of the best cliffs I have been to in the Southern Adirondacks region. Another true Adirondack adventure. The appeal of this cliff starts with the longish approach (40-50min) off trail traveling, following flagging tape to this remote cliff. The cliff has a high concentration of 5.11 cracks ranging from fingers to hands, some short and stout and others are slightly overhanging endurance tests. Most routes have fixed anchors. Oct 20, 2014

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