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Routes in Pedra de Cumbira

South Ridge S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: -11.209, 14.335 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 260 total, 7/month
Shared By: Pat M on Sep 11, 2014
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Description

Huge dome along the side of the road near most of the lodging and right above the village of Cumbira.

Getting There

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From the town of Conda, travel 5km South on the main road past the entrance to Chinandala farm on the right and Fazenda Rio Iris on the left (large sign with old grindstone). After passing Fazenda Rio Iris, continue until the next village (Cumbira). Park on the left side of the road at the far end of the village. Speak with the local soba who can arrange some boys to re-cut the trail to the route (they know where it is) for about $5 (500kw). It's definitely worth it for both the ease of access and the goodwill generated by offering a little employment... The route will be obvious from the road. The trail starts at the SW corner of the village through some mandioca fields. When you get near the tree line, turn right through the fields to find a faint trail through the woods. The trail exits the woods 50-100 feet below the rock into thick grass. Cut through the grass to the base of the rock, then move left and up over boulders to the southernmost edge of the shoulder. The route starts off a nice platform and the first bolts are clearly visible from the ground. The start of the climb is barely 5th class, so you can scramble up a fair bit to find the first bolt without much risk.

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