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Areas in Starbuck Right

Ice Fall Zone 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Ledge Area 6 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Left Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Right End 9 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
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Shared By: Jay Harrison on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

This is a small crag hidden in the woods near the base of Starbuck Mountain's ESE corner. To date (2014), this is the only developed climbing area on the mountain, with over a dozen established routes and several active projects.
The cliff is about 300' wide, but much of the left side is dirty and wet. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the right half of the cliff, which is regularly split by vertical crack or seam lines. Currently, the routes focus on these weaknesses, but ample opportunity exists for excellent face lines between these features. Difficulty ranges from hard 5.6 to hard 5.10.
For ease of description, the cliff is divided into four parts: the Left Slab, which holds some promise for beginner routes (there are two unnamed routes there already); the Ice Fall area, which is often damp and dank, but during prolonged dry spells offers clean rock, and currently has but one route; the Ledge, as its name suggests this is the area where a ledge 12' up is the common start to routes there (the lower cliff band is mossy and wet); and the Right End, which has the longest and most popular climbs. That should help locate specific climbs.

Getting There

This is the first cliff reached from the parking lot at the junction of Cleveland Road and Rt. 28. Almost directly opposite Cleveland Road, a well-beaten herd path leads into the woods, across Raquette Brook, under power lines, and up to this crag in about fifteen minutes' walk.
Be aware that the beginning of this path lies along the boundary between State Land and private property. DO NOT TRESPASS. Within two hundred yards, the trail diverges from the boundary.

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