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Elevation: 1,958 ft
GPS: 43.46001, -74.43685
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,741 total · 125/month
Shared By: Marcus Armstrong on Aug 17, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

Description Suggest change

A small toprope/trad/sport climbing spot in an abandoned quarry. Shady climbing on shorter routes with a convenient and flat base area only 2 minutes from the road.  Great place to practice, teach and bring programs.  The first 9 climbs can easily be top-roped by simply reaching the anchors from above (carefully laying down or stepping down on a safety leash for Woody & Squeeky Toy Aliens) and feed the rope through.  Others can also be top-roped but must rappel in to set them up.  Local climbing ethic at this crag is to use steel chain anchors with quick-links or steel biners for top-roping. They are bomber and are inspected annually for wear and are cheap enough to replace - go ahead and use them (no need to set up your own anchors)."The Whole Toy Box Traverse"  - If you have the place to yourself and want to practice multi-pitch anchor building and traversing trad techniques go part way up and traverse the whole thing from Mr. Potato Head to Sarge setting hanging anchors or at good stances as often as you want then go higher and repeat the whole process again with a higher line going back the opposite direction.  If you want solitude during the summer months avoid climbing here on Fridays when local camps heavily use this area.

Getting There Suggest change

On the south side of Route 8 south of Lake Pleasant, there's a small pull off in front of a rusted up gate about 150 feet from Tamarack road.  Go behind the gate and walk to the back right corner of the asphalt to find the path heading left and up into the woods.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: Lake Pleasant Quarry Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Pleasant Quarry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Woody / Rappel Station
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
I am not a Toy!
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Woody / Rappel Station
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
I am not a Toy!
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Lake Pleasant Quarry »

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