Elevation: 1,958 ft
GPS: 43.46, -74.437 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 7,957 total · 104/month
Shared By: Marcus Armstrong on Aug 17, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

A small toprope/trad/sport climbing spot in an abandoned quarry. Shady climbing on shorter routes with a convenient and flat base area only 2 minutes from the road.  Great place to practice, teach and bring programs.  The first 9 climbs can easily be top-roped by simply reaching the anchors from above (carefully laying down or stepping down on a safety leash for Woody & Squeeky Toy Aliens) and feed the rope through.  Others can also be top-roped but must rappel in to set them up.  Local climbing ethic at this crag is to use steel chain anchors with quick-links or steel biners for top-roping. They are bomber and are inspected annually for wear and are cheap enough to replace - go ahead and use them (no need to set up your own anchors)."The Whole Toy Box Traverse"  - If you have the place to yourself and want to practice multi-pitch anchor building and traversing trad techniques go part way up and traverse the whole thing from Mr. Potato Head to Sarge setting hanging anchors or at good stances as often as you want then go higher and repeat the whole process again with a higher line going back the opposite direction.  If you want solitude during the summer months avoid climbing here on Fridays when local camps heavily use this area.

Getting There

On the south side of Route 8 south of Lake Pleasant, there's a small pull off in front of a rusted up gate about 150 feet from Tamarack road.  Go behind the gate and walk to the back right corner of the asphalt to find the path heading left and up into the woods.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Pleasant Quarry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Buzz
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Woody
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Rex
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
To Infinity and Beyond
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Star Command
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Buzz
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Woody
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Rex
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
To Infinity and Beyond
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Star Command
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lake Pleasant Quarry »

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