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Routes in Mt Carillon

SouthEast ridge Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Southeast Ridge indirect T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Ridge indirect T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
West ridge Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
long ridge 3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Elevation: 13,552 ft
GPS: 36.592, -118.278 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,990 total · 39/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 16, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details


A rocky peak with at least one easy approach (from the SW). Great views of all the high peaks of the southern Sierra peaks, and down to Tulainyo Lake. It is about 0.6 mile / 1km east of the famous climbing peak of Mt Russell, and 1.2 miles / 2km northeast from Mt Whitney.

The West ridge can be a fun addition after descending to Russell-Carillon col (lat long ~ N36.5915 W118.2817) from a famous route on Mt Russell.

One guidebook also reports a long moderate route on the E face, and an easy route on the NE ridge.
The easiest way to the summit is from the WSW, at first on sand and talus, finishing with a scramble (class 2 or maybe 3).

A satellite of this peak with three moderate routes is the Impala -- near the bottom of the SE ridge of Carillon.

Another lower satellite is the Springbok.

long ridge project:
Goal is to start near Lower Boy Scout Lake and climb up the ridge by the Springbok and Impala and on up the SE ridge to the summit of Mt Carillon, then continue on ridges to the summits of Mt Russell. Find a route which has a very high percentage of low 5th class, 4th, and 3rd class, and only little walking, and No sections harder than say 5.6 - (Question - whether rappel might be used to avoid a more difficulty down-climb).
Total length of climbing might be around 9000 ft, with uphill +5000 vertical ft.
Of course such a traverse might not exist on Mt Carillon and Mt Russell. That's why it's a "project".
A way to see it as sections . . .
1) Lower Boy Scout Lake to the Springbok.
2) Springbok to the Impala (or at least the N peak of Impala).
. . (puzzle is that the main ridge bypasses the three Impala peaks).
3) Impala to Gendarme 3800m (N36.5884 W118.2707).
4) next up to Bump 3935m (N36.5896 W118.2726).
. . (perhaps the challenge here is to find a way not too easy, yet not too hard.
. . . like maybe early traverse right to another ridge?)
5) next to the break / notch at (N36.5908 W118.2757).
. . (perhaps finish with rappel down into notch?)
6) SE Ridge Direct to the summit of Mt Carillon.
7} down West Ridge Direct to the Russell-Carillon pass.
8) up to the E summit of Mt Russell, or to the top of the N ridge of Mt Russell.
9) to the W summit of Mt Russell.

So far sections 3, 6, 7, 8, 9 are known to have been completed.

Permit required: Most routes on this peak require a USFS wilderness permit for either single-day or overnight use. The permit can be requested in advance in January, or sometimes permits are available the day before by walking into the Mt Whitney Visitors Center just south of Lone Pine - (only available at this center, not at any other USFS centers along the Eastside Sierra).

Getting There

Usually reached by starting at the Whitney Portal trailhead and going up the unmarked climbers track (3rd class) up North Fork Lone Pine Creek to somewhere above Lower Boy Scout Lake, then leaving the track to its north side toward the desired climbing route.
. (or completely different approaches might be needed for some climbing routes) .

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt Carillon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West ridge Direct
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West ridge Direct
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
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