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Routes in Ben Wall (aka "Crawford Crack Crag" by Rt 302)

Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wide One, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 1,609 ft
GPS: 44.202, -71.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 934 total · 22/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 5, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

Description

NOTE: Jon Sykes' The NOTCHES lists this as "Crawford Crack Crag"

Probably no further than 75 ft from the 3rd busiest highway in "upstate" NH (Rt 302), this true roadside crag provides several short (35-40 ft high) steep routes under Willard.

Cracks 5.10-5.11 and a 12+ arete(TR). All routes are TR but I guess could be lead (some have).

Check COMMENTs under the individual PHOTOs for Beta and climber's opinions of the grades.

Getting There

Driving up (westbound) on Rt 302, just after the road becomes 3 lanes to climb into the notch, look left just before the "“Slower Traffic Keep Right"” sign. (I suppose you could also park here, in a tiny pullout just before the sign, but you then have to cross Rt 302.)

The best / safest parking is the same as for the Hattie’s Garden approach path. Driving up-notch (westbound) this is about 0.1 mi. before the “Slower Traffic…” sign, and is a large gravel pullout on the left just before the bridge over Saco “stream". (See the Gully #1 Buttress AREA for specific directions, if needed.)

From the Hattie’s parking, walk uphill on Rt 302 for about 2 minutes (Except for the bridge, this walking can be done on the "“grass side"” of the guardrail.) When the stream (Saco River) comes close to you on the left, scramble down and cross it, then walk another 2 minutes through open woods with some low brush, about 50 ft “inland” from the stream.

If the river is high, it is possible to walk through the woods from the parking to the crag; just start up the Hattie's Garden path for a few feet and "hang a right" through the woods, intercepting the river and staying to the left of it.

3 Total Climbs

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edward pinskey
Saint George Utah
edward pinskey   Saint George Utah
The double arching Crack is way fun and a great lead bring your big cams for the stuff out here. Dec 18, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
John, I corrected this by redoing it from a route description into a sub-area (man you made a mess, lol) Now you can add individual routes under the heading. I was able to move the comments, but had to lose people's stars and ticks. Aug 5, 2014
Read Januskiewiecz
New England
Read Januskiewiecz   New England
Cannot believe I've driven by this spot so many times and never noticed it. I'll second the tape comment I'd cover all the skin you can ha ha. Also if you are missing something from your rack and have been here recently hit me up with what it was and I'll get it back to you. May 27, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
These routes are down by the river down and right of the slabs on Mt. Willard---easy to miss unless the leaves are off the trees. Park where you can, jump the guardrail, and hop the river (easy except in the highest water). These little routes define gnarly---a bit of Vedauwoo dropped into New Hampshire. And yeah, there MAY be an offwidth. May 14, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Aye there be an OW or 2

Good TR area Jan 22, 2013
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
hey so i was reading in a forum about off-widths and someone mentioned this area. is it true that there lays an offwidth or two here? Jan 22, 2013
chinos  
checked this area out this weekend. great little spot with shade and the river.... The climbs are short but great, and very lead worthy! Aug 5, 2012
TAPE UP for these!!! Very gritty, but very fun (as I remember) May 28, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Nice John, one more to add to the list.
-meclimber Oct 28, 2009
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
these route are "interesting" they all are harder than they look and steeper. i'll give the ow 10+ how's that? a pretty cool little spot Oct 28, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
This crag looks great, the overhanging ow in the middle looks badass. Burlap, any info? Sep 14, 2009

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