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Routes in Nokogiriyama

Rinkan Face - Gang Edge S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rinkan Face - Ryuseigun (Meteor Swarm) TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand Face - Ivy Crack TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wet Face - Sasori Kurakku (Scorpion Crack) TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yushima Rock Garden - Imagination TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yushima Rock Garden - Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Shared By: Christian Storms on Jul 11, 2014
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Description

While Chiba is most known for its amazing surf beaches Nogogiriyama is one place you can climb. This old rock quarry made of tuff is a top rope area that was developed in the 1980s. It is warm year round and a great place to take kids.
There are several areas here. They include:
Rinkan Face (13 meters high - to the right as you enter)
- Umibe No Paradaisu (Beach Paradise) (5.8) Left edge corner
- Nanadogobu (5.9) Flake
- Double Mantel (5.10+)
- French Free (5.11+) Starts to the right of Double Mantel.
- Ryuseigun (meteor shower) (5.7) Right edge corner
- Gang Easy (5.10-)
Yushima Rock Garden (15 meters high)
- Imagination (5.10-)
- Smith Rock (5.10+)
- Triangle Direct (5.11+)
- Triangle
- Uchuyuei (Spacewalk) (5.7)
- Southpaw (5.10-)
Wet Face (10 meters high)
- Half An Hour (5.10+)
- Rocky (5.10+) crack
- Sasori (Scorpion) Crack (5.10-)
- Middle Edge (5.10-) Left corner crack
- Humming Bird (5.12-)
Sand Face (25 meters high)
- Kanagawa (5.10+) Left top crack
- Mamushi Face (5.9)
- Windy (5.10-)
- Battle Royale (5.10+)
- Hachi (Bee) (5.10+) The finger crack abobe.
- Abu (Horsefly) (5.10+) crack/face
- Ivy Crack (5.10+)
Sunshine Face (35 meters high)
- Finger Lake (5.11+) Left crack from the terrace
- Oku No Hosomichi (5.11+) Crack from the terrace
- Akitarou (5.11+)
- Sand Shower (5.9) Left Corner crack
- Every Day (5.6) Left edge of wall

Getting There

Take state highway 127 to the Nokogiri Ropeway entrance. Pay the toll of 1000 yen and drive another 3 three minutes. On the left side of the road you'll see a place for about three cars to park. In the area "climbing is prohibited" but allowed. Five minute approach all downhill.

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Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
Getting to this crag is difficult to say the least - unless you live on Chiba Peninsula. The crag parking lot is half way up a ridiculously short toll road and it is absolutely forbidden to walk on the toll road. Believe me I tried. The road is guarded top and bottom and in between.
I hesitate to mention this but I'd rather give beta that could prevent someone from getting hurt who's crazy enough to find an alternate solution (like me) to access this cliff. There is a possible access point above the cliffs. Find the trail that follows the ridgeline from the gondola top station. At the stairs go XC along the ridge about 75-100m then descend the easier looking hillside. However, be forewarned it is very difficult, loose and steep hillside. If you venture to far along the ridge before descending you can dislodge rocks that will careen off the cliffs and land in the climbing area (obviously you wouldn't want to slip on this near vertical hillside as you will die). Also once you're done climbing the only way out is the way you came. There may or may not be climbing ropes in various conditions tied off on trees that go about half way up...
Driving from Tokyo is very expensive and honestly not worth it imo for such a small TR crag. It costs about $90 RT via the aqua-line (coming from Yokosuka) or you could take the Tokyowan Ferry which is about $70 (assuming you're going with two people in one small car). I took the ferry on foot, walked 1km to the gondola - which I took to the summit and the total cost with parking on the Yokosuka side was roughly 3200yen. One option I haven't tried yet is to take a taxi from the Chiba side ferry station up the toll road (1000 yen toll to drive up) which would make the approach much much easier. But then you'll have to coordinate a pick up once you're done and pay the toll twice (and I can only imagine the conversation that will ensue as you try to communicate that you want to be dropped off in the middle of nowhere and picked up a few hours later). Is it really worth the hassle and the $? Probably not. Instead leave the climbing gear at home and bring your hiking shoes. There are a lot of cool trails in the area to explore with some very cool rock formations and statues.
But if you must climb here at least bring your trad gear as there are some cool (hard?) looking crack lines. As far as I could tell there are no sport routes - TR & trad are your only options. Mar 8, 2015

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