Mt. Thielsen Climbing

Located in the Mt. Thielsen Wilderness and the Umpqua National Forest, Mt. Thielsen is only a short drive north of Oregon's Crater Lake National Park.  Once named the "Lightning Rod of the Cascades" this volcanic peak sports one of the most memorable summit blocks in the state and can be gawked at from many viewpoints on OR138, OR97, as well as OR230.  Easily spotted from the summit of the Crater Lake Rim (Garfield Peak), Mt. Thielsen is a visual attraction as well as a physical one with the West Ridge falling into a classic intro to mountaineering route for early local aspirants, as well as one of the summer time test pieces for mountain athletes/runners. The East Face of Mt. Thielsen also boasts the hardest alpine route in the state of OR which has never been repeated ("Brainless Child").

Respect the mountain as storms and steep slopes often create hazards such as lightning strike, avalanche, as well as rock and ice fall.  Routes on Mt. Thielsen should be taken seriously as all have magnificent exposure (even the easier West Ridge), and most have the overhead hazards of falling rocks and snow.  Every aspect of the mountain is steep enough for avalanche so "Know Before You Go" and plan accordingly.  The old timers used to say that if there were grey clouds within 6 miles of the peak to "GTF off!".  This is due to the geological prominence's propensity to draw in the lightning strikes.  Many reports of visually watching this occurrence, as well as "feeling the vibes" near the summit have been made over the years.