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Routes in 1st Band

Meaty, Beaty, Big, and Bouncy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pandemonium S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Paradisio S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 39.2, -107.236 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,392 total, 33/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Jason Smith, Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The first band contains mostly hard sport routes (5.12 and up) and a couple moderates on the far right, but the rock is very rotten on that end.

Getting There

From the approach gully, look for a small cairn after you become level with what looks like climbable rock to the right. If you look off up and to the right, you will see a lot of bolts on bulges and overhangs.

Step off the main gully, going slightly down and over precariously loose terrain to the base of the ledge. Find a fixed line, and use it gain the ledge proper. The follow more fixed lines along the base of the climbs until the ledge becomes wider and safer.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 1st Band

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pandemonium
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Meaty, Beaty, Big, and Bouncy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pandemonium 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Meaty, Beaty, Big, and Bouncy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
Not sure what the description above is referring to with rotten rock. The rock at this crag is generally quite good, with the occasional brief choss band at the start.

Also, for a less adventurous approach, park in the first pullout on your left after you pass the north entrance to Redstone. This is the same parking for the River Boulders. Cross the highway, and pick up a trail. Follow this up the hill, and when it splits just before the cliff, stay left (right is the Friends and Family slab), watching out for some poison ivy at the junction. Follow a faint and rugged trail up and left which brings you to the base of the cave routes. Jun 26, 2015

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