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Routes in Wudaoling

LF 1 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
LF 2 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
LF 3 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
LF 4 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
LF 5 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
LF 6 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ML 3.25 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ML 3.5 S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
ML 4.5 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
ML 5 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ML 6 and 6.5 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
ML Long Overhang S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
ML Slopper S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
MR-1 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
RF 1 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
RF 2 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
RF 4 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
RF 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
RF 6 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

This crag was developed early June, 2014, by a group of seven people, over the course of three full weeks, largely with the support of Ozark Gear and the Chinese Mountain Development Institute.

The wall is located right next to a relatively isolated and pristine section of the Baihe River and the scenery is extremely pleasant. It really makes one forget they are within two hours of one of the world's largest cities. Unfortunately, cigarette butts, toilet paper, and some other traces of human use are already visible. If visiting, please practice Leave No Trace, set an example for others, and perhaps even contribute some cleaning yourself!

The crag has about 30 sport routes. The bolting seems fairly reasonable, never particularly run out. There are only a couple routes that seem doable on gear, though to my knowledge no attempts have yet been made. There is a solid variety of difficulty of climbs, from some juggy 5.6-7 climbs on the rightmost face, to a long and difficult 5.12 overhang on the crag’s middle left, almost everything in-between can be found. The easier, rightmost face of the crag does get more crowded though.

The rock could still use some cleaning, some parts are particularly muddy and dusty, but hopefully this will resolve with time. You might want to bring along a brush or two and pitch in. Also, if climbing at this crag in the near future, be extra cautious of loose rock. I saw at least a couple sizable rocks fall within two weekend visits. I would highly advise wearing a helmet there.

NB:

There are no access fees for this location or any other in Baihe as far as I know.

You have to wade through the river to get to this crag. There is no way around it. When the water is high, you might need to wade for about 100 feet or more so slippers, sandals, etc. are desirable! That said, swimming or fishing for small fish (maybe 3-4 inches or so) are definitely possible activities on the side.

There is a “hostel” nearby this crag. They offer basic accommodation, food, and drinks and are located to the left of the dirt road about two thirds the way from the main road to the crag. They are even setting up wifi! It isn’t anything fancy, of course, but generally speaking buying services and supplies locally, while climbing in places unfamiliar with climbing, is a great way to get people to support the development of climbing in their areas! This crag is, of course, also located in driving vicinity of De Lai Zhi Jia, the popular climber’s hostel in Baihe. I'm hoping we'll be seeing both locations at capacity during weekends in the future!

I have seen people camping within the gorge and it looks possible at this crag as well. I would, of course, once again heed LNT, including refraining from building open campfires and making sure you go to the bathroom far away from any water sources (the latter is apparently already an issue at this crag,which is located right next to the river...).

please also note in regard to route descriptions: since this crag was just developed I am still waiting on agreed ratings, etc. I am ballparking difficulties for now, if you have any input please share!

Getting There

For an explanation of how to get to the general Baihe Area, please check the main Baihe Page.

The exact location of this crag is visible on the map function of this page. It is actually surprisingly straightforward given how secluded the crag actually feels once there. Take the main road through Baihe Gorge. Once you pass the Heilongtan Natural Scenic Area (where Bee gorge is located more or less), start paying attention and be on the lookout for a large yellow/red sign for a paintball course. There is a semi-good picture of the sign posted on this page. The turn is before the Erdaohe and Hengcengen tunnels! Currently, there are also some smaller white signs at this crossroad for the Climber’s festival that was organized a couple weekends ago. Anyhow, take the dirt route and follow it for about 8 minutes or so. You will get to one large crossroad, just continue straight, the left would take you a bit up to the hostel mentioned before and the right would take you to the river a bit too soon. Eventually you will reach a farm, follow the road to the farm’s right and you will arrive to the parking lot for the crag. Wade across the river from there!

19 Total Climbs

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