Elevation: 7,865 ft
GPS: 39.202, -120.265 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,862 total · 89/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on Jun 22, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Shirley Canyon at Squaw Valley holds some of the largest, cleanest rock in Tahoe. This are has seen recent activity with several good climbs and there's a huge potential for development. These cliffs are between 80' to 150' tall and face due east. They go into the shade from about 1pm till dusk.

Getting There

Either hike up Shirley Canyon and take a left branch into Silverado about 1/2 way up the slabs, or take the tram to the top and hike down into Silverado on a small footpath. The hike is likely about 2 miles and can take 45 minutes.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shirley Canyon Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Black Napkins
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
The A Bomb
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Napkins Middle Wall
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The A Bomb Middle Wall
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Shirley Canyon Cliffs »

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Photos

Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Hey Patrick, thanks for starting this sweet looking area! FYI I'm moving it under the Truckee River Canyon page (since it's set up that way in the current North Tahoe guide), but let me know if you don't feel it fits there. Jun 23, 2014
One of the best granite crags in the North Tahoe area! As good as Snowshed Wall (probably better, imho, as it's taller) It was kept "under the radar" for many, many years, and only visited by climbers very rarely before the guidebook came out. Great climbing in a beautiful, semi "backcountry" like setting, with only a 50 minute approach.
All the route info can be found in the "LOCALS GUIDE to: Rock Climbs of North Tahoe" available at the camp4press.com website. Jun 24, 2014
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
Bring bug spray for the hike out at dusk. They weren't bad at the crag, just the deproach. I'm still itching... Jul 1, 2014
About 20 high quality rock climbs and counting!
The best time to climb here is in the fall.
Three really nice ice climbs here:
Moonlight Mile on the boondocks wall
Iron Cross located on the trophy wall left and
Bruno Mollie Shoes on the trophy wall right Dec 4, 2016