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Routes in Mt. Percival Cliff

Dirty Old Man T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 2,171 ft
GPS: 43.81, -71.556 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Zac St. Jules on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

EDIT: In the next little while I will work on getting a few more routes listed and some photos.

The Mt. Percival cliff gets a large amount of sun. It definitely drys quickly which is great but it can get very hot. Fortunately there is a large boulder opposing the center of the cliff and trees to the left of the cliff that offer shade to the belayer. Because of the fairly long approach it is unlikely you'll run into other climbers but if you're looking to go hiking and climbing, it's a great area.

Height is about 60ft.

Walking off or toprope set up is very easy.

The cliffs are either top-rope or trad. Bring a standard rack with extra small stuff.

Getting There

From I-93 take exit 24 (signs for Ashland/Holderness). Pass through Ashland on RTE 3. Follow RTE 3 until reaching Holderness proper. Make a left at the Squam Lake Marketplace onto RTE 113. Follow 113 for about 10 min until you see a small brown sign on your right with parking areas on both sides of the road. Park in the lot on your left. There are no parking fees but feel free to donate to the Squam Lakes Association.

After about 5 min of walking, the trail will go straight or veer right. Take the trail to the right following signs for Mt. Percival. The trail will make one more split where you have the option of a right or a left. Go left. Continue following that trail until you see a sign for summit via caves or via cliffs. Choose summit via caves which once through the cave will spit you out at the base of the cliff next to the massive boulder.

The approach is about 1hr 30min at a moderate pace. The trails are very well maintained.

Side note: The Squam Lake Marketplace sells trail maps, great food, and great local beers.

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