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16. Paredon De Josue

International > N America > Cuba > Vinales > Mogote del Valle

Description

This crag has some fun climbs and it is not nearly as steep as Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca. Most of it is vertical to slightly overhanging with cracks, pockets and smaller tufas. It is a great place to escape the sun as it is shady most of the day. Be wary of wasp nests. I was stung twice in the face while climbing on Guajiro Natural and knocked down one nest, but that seems to be par for the course. Wasp like these cliffs as much as climbers do.

Getting There

The best way to get here is by walking through the tunnel at Cueva Cabeza de la vaca. Its worth doing even if your not going to go climb. The tunnel is about a hundred yards long and just about when you think you'll need a light you can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Once you get to the other side you will have a nice view of the farms below, hike down a steep trail about 50 meters to the fields below another 100 meters or so along the field and the cliff will be up on your left. You can't really miss it.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Calentando Baterias
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Chan Chan de Ilusiones
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Tarentola
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Romeo y Regleta
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Guajiro Natural
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
Por la Raja de Tu Falda
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Economizando Baterias
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Reversible
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Mujer, Peligro y Placer
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 1
Mancha en Mi Expediente
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Pies de Homo Habilis
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Dame Luz San Valentin
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Melodia Celestial
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Terapia de Miedo
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
Cuando los Angeles Lloran
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Rebentadera
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Sorpresa
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Calentando Baterias
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chan Chan de Ilusiones
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tarentola
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Romeo y Regleta
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Guajiro Natural
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Por la Raja de Tu Falda
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Economizando Baterias
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Reversible
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mujer, Peligro y Placer
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mancha en Mi Expediente
 1
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Pies de Homo Habilis
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dame Luz San Valentin
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Melodia Celestial
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Terapia de Miedo
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cuando los Angeles Lloran
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Rebentadera
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sorpresa
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paredon De Josue
[Hide Photo] Paredon De Josue
The approach.  We appreciated having headlamps particularly when returning at dusk.
[Hide Photo] The approach. We appreciated having headlamps particularly when returning at dusk.
El custodio del Paredon de Josue.
[Hide Photo] El custodio del Paredon de Josue.
the crag
[Hide Photo] the crag

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] We didn't have any wasp issues when we were there in late February (2019), but it is worth checking for activity before launching. This crag is well worth visiting, if for no other reason than walking through the tunnel (which reportedly is a cave that was improved by the Cuban military for preparedness purposes), dropping into a peaceful valley, and climbing in the shade (from mid-morning on). Mar 29, 2019
D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] Don't forget your bug spray! Best to bring it from your origination country, there's not much to be had at the pharmacy in town. Jan 21, 2020