Elevation: 647 ft
GPS: 41.621, -73.054 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,393 total · 633/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Jun 9, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

Description

This crag is found in the Mattatuck State Forest east of Rt. 8. It comprised of five main crags. The rock is good quality gneiss with trad and TR routes ranging from 5.3 - 5.11. Climbers have been visiting Whitestone since the 1930s and as such many of the routes have long histories.

Getting There

From Route 8 (North or South) take Exit 37 and turn onto Rt. 262 East. Cross the Naugatuck River and turn right onto Waterbury Rd. at the T junction. Take the first left onto Spruce Brook Rd. In 1.3 miles, look for a pull-off on the left that holds about 5-6 cars. GPS Coordinates: (N 41.61893, W 73.04962) .

BEWARE of the protruding rock in the center of the parking area!

Cross the
1. Parking area and head up a rocky jeep trail. After about 100 yards, look for a right turn onto the blue-blazed Whitestone Cliffs Trail . After a couple more minutes, the trail crests a rise and, as it starts downhill, takes a
2. The turn most people miss. (off the jeep trail) sharply downhill to a brook. Cross the small wooden bridge and follow the blue blazes uphill until the trail becomes a rock scramble (about 10 minutes from parking).

3. Trail "junction" (10 mins from parking). Stay on trail to reach top of Slab or [[109085946]]. Turn left for bottom of Slab or [[109303497]]. , turn left and follow the wall for the Right Side climbs, the base of Main Slab, or the Lower Lower Cliff.
-OR-
Continue on the hiking trail up the rock and then take a left on a faint climbers trail to reach the top of Main Slab or Lower Cliff.

The approach is approx. 1/2 mile and it takes about 20 minutes to reach any of the areas.

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Whitestone Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 13
Stone Age
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 11
Going Vertical
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
Athena
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
Tracker and Kody
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 7
A Prime Climb
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Romancing the Stone
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 5
Tree Skirt
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 4
Dead Vertical
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 6
Smokehouse
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Dreadlock
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 3
Belly Flop
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Structures
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Nectar of the Gods
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 3
Super Stout
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Wonder Dog
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stone Age Main Slab
 13
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Going Vertical Main Slab
 11
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Athena Athena Rock > Right End
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Tracker and Kody Athena Rock > Left End
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
A Prime Climb Main Slab
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, TR
Romancing the Stone Main Slab
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Tree Skirt Main Slab
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Dead Vertical Main Slab
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Smokehouse Main Slab
 6
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Dreadlock Right Side
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Belly Flop Main Slab
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Structures Right Side
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Nectar of the Gods Main Slab
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Super Stout Main Slab
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Wonder Dog Athena Rock > Left End
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Whitestone Cliffs »

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