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Areas in South Willow Canyon - Narrows

Lower Narrows 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lower Narrows - Creek Side 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Narrows - North 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Narrows - South 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

Description

South Willow Canyon is found in the Stansbury Range, which forms the western boundary of Tooele valley. It is nearest the city of Grantsville, and is about an hours drive west of Salt Lake City.There are numerous limestone outcroppings along the forest service road along the canyon bottom. These are home to some quality bolted sport routes ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14a (The Big Smile). There are routes to be found in and around the lower narrows, but the majority of the routes are found in the upper Narrows These areas are shady in the summer, and though the upper narrows can be crowded at times on the weekends, a mid-week excursion can offer up a quiet and cooler alternative to the more popular canyons to the east. For trad guys, there is at least one naturally protected route (5.9ish) that climbs a crack system on a sharp and solitary outcrop (The Suicide Arete), which can be found on the south side of the road near the Boy Scout Campground.

P.S. A stick clip may be handy for clipping the first bolts on some of the south side routes that climb the walls above the creek.

Getting There

From Salt Lake City, take I-80 west bound past the Great Salt Lake and take the Grantsville exit #88. From the exit head south on Burmester Road into Grantsville. Find your way to Main Street and turn right, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. Turn left and follow the road south out of town until you see the sign indicating the right turn for South Willow Canyon. From there just drive west until you reach the forest service gate (closed in winter). Proceed up the roughish dirt road past numerous campsites. Once you see the solid limestone outcrop and the first narrows, you can stop and climb or continue up to the upper narrows. Always park either above or below these narrows and as far off to the side of the road as possible. Be cautious while climbing as some routes are very close to passing vehicles.

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Willow Canyon - Narrows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 36
Rivers Edge
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Walk the Plank
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Unknown 11c-ish
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
The Eleven
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Teflon Guerrilla
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 28
Refiner
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 25
Black Sails
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Texture
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Slim Shady (The Real Slim Shady 13a)
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 14
Narrowpathic
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
Dust
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
TKO
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Nerve Agent
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Narrow Minded
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Dust-pathic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rivers Edge Narrows - South
 36
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Walk the Plank Narrows - South
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Unknown 11c-ish Narrows - South
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Eleven Narrows - South
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Teflon Guerrilla Narrows - North
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Refiner Narrows - North
 28
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Black Sails Narrows - North
 25
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Texture Narrows - North
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Slim Shady (The Real Slim S… Narrows - South
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Narrowpathic Narrows - North
 14
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dust Narrows - North
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
TKO Narrows - North
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Nerve Agent Narrows - South
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Narrow Minded Narrows - South
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Dust-pathic Narrows - North
 3
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Willow Canyon - Narrows »

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Photos

D Argyle
Green Mountain Falls, CO
D Argyle   Green Mountain Falls, CO
Summer 2005 camping was $8 per night. Because the canyon offers good car camping close to Tooele, it is VERY popular on weekends and crazy around holidays. I would also advise that you avoid the place during during hunting seasons because it is very hard to find parking anywhere along the road. You will be continously contending with hunter traffic. Jan 30, 2006
There is free camping one canyon north in North Willow canyon or Davenport Canyon. Also there are climbs in both the lower and upper narrows. My personal faves are the bolted routes on the cliff face right of the lower narrows. The large rock west of the Boy scout campground also has an awesome 5.10 tips crack that ascends near the North east arete of a beautiful limestone tower. Jan 5, 2008
Jason Shumaker
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jason Shumaker   Salt Lake City, Utah
this road is still closed Jun 30, 2011
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
Road is open, climbing is good. This place could really use a more concise guide because there's been a bunch of development and (as far as I can see) there's no decent guide available anymore. There used to be one on pusher's site that is long since deceased. Jun 8, 2014
"Find your way to Main Street and turn left, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. "

When you get to Main Street, West is going right. The street with the rec signs is actually called 'West Street'. When you come back through on your way to 15 you'll have lots of dust in your eyes and it'll be less obvious but look for Kearl Street. Jul 5, 2014
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
Turn RIGHT at main street. Please fix this. Also when you're headed into town there's a slight detour even to get to mainstream. You'll make a quick left, and a quick right at a T stop based on the instructions above. Oct 5, 2014
Reedrombo
Home is where you park it
Reedrombo   Home is where you park it
Hey out of curiosity, does anyone know what the route between TKO and Narrow Beginnings is? Name, grade? It runs up the bulge through some fixed draws with purple biners. May 6, 2016
Ned Plimpton
Salt Lake City
Ned Plimpton   Salt Lake City
The route between TKO and Narrow Beginnings is called Refiner, 12a. Jun 18, 2016
David LeBaron
Grantsville,UT
David LeBaron   Grantsville,UT
It is very important for everyone to know that this place takes a long time to dry out. A lot longer than most sport climbing crags in northern Utah. Every spring the sunny side gets a "pre-dry" but there is still frozen ground above. Then when it gets hot out in late spring, it will look like a silent waterfall, even when there is no precipitation. At this point, the creek on the other side starts to flood from the upper canyon melt-off. Throughout the process, I have watched people who are too eager to wait, or assume it's safe to climb because it's dry on the surface, or in spots, break holds because it's actually not. So please don't be one of those people. Be the kind of person that tells your friend that it's worth waiting. Like waiting for your dog to be in heat before you breed it.
This place is truly a Utah gem. So let's keep the features on the wall as long as we are able to. May 10, 2017

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