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Routes in Caterpillar Cliff

Caterpillar Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Caveman Cam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Respirator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 1,835 ft
GPS: 43.55, -73.946 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 373 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 5, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

The most remote public-property cliff on Crane's SE flank, this cliff is a long trek with difficult talus-hopping to reach. As such, it's an almost guaranteed day of privacy. That isolation comes with the additional requirement of skilled self-rescue abilities, and the knowledge that help, if needed, may be a full day away. Cell phone signal seems good along the cliff, but is spotty or nonexistent in the talus below.
From the air, this crag looks sort of like a caterpillar crawling along the side of the mountain, thus its name. There are two facets to the crag: its long left side, which runs up along the flank of the mountain, and its dead-vertical plus, orange face on the right.
The rock is typical Crane Mountain syenitic gneiss. The routes to date have been done ground-up, on-sight, with no subsequent cleaning. Expect adventurous, gritty climbing, this is not the place to go for convenient, clean cragging.

Getting There

From the trailhead parking lot, walk east, along the unofficial East Path, until it begins to climb upward toward the Measles Walls. Leave the path, continuing east along the mountainside, past the Below the Measles Wall. About 5 minutes past the BMW, head upslope, reaching a ridge with a steep-sided, narrow ravine on the opposite side. Cross the ravine, gaining a ridge paralleling Crane Mtn's SE flank (called Parallel Ridge). Descend to the base of the ridge (which is where the Waterfall Wall is located), and continue NE, still paralleling Crane's flank. Cross the stream where it bends sharply right, pass through a small cluster of boulders, then slant downhill slightly, to avoid a boulder-choke at a marshy area. Cross the marsh, gaining another decent ridge running beside the mountain, until a large boulder field is visible at the base of the mountain. This pile includes boulders 40'+ tall and lies just before private inholdings block public access farther northeast. Clamber up through the talus to the base of the cliff - the most feasible route usually reaches the corner between the two faces.

3 Total Climbs

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