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Elevation: 2,302 ft
GPS: 42.16167, -122.60669
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,661 total · 323/month
Shared By: TomD on Jun 3, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

Emigrant Lake -the Tuolumne Meadows of Southern Oregon- offers climbing that is accessible year round, except part of Aqua Wall that is submerged when water levels are high. Tommy Caldwell and partner Kevin Jorgensen just recently sent the once thought to be impossible Aqua-Weenie. The success garnered much media attention. Tommy said it was one of the most wildly exposed routes he had ever touched, even rivalling that of the dawn wall. The crag sees sun for the majority of the day making it nice to take a swim in the lake. Crowds are minimal, but there are occasionally classes that take up the majority of the upper climbs.

Routes range from mostly moderate climbs, under 10a, but there are about one of each grade through 12c. Almost all the climbs can be easily top-roped or lead, mostly sport a few trad.

The cost per day is $4 paid into the Iron Ranger - aka deposit box. Bring exact change.

Emigrant Lake County Park

Getting There Suggest change

Located at the north end of Emigrant Lake. Can be accessed through main park entrance. Drive past the camping area and boat launches to park in the dirt lot on the left near the cement dam, just before the RV park. Then walk to the back of the RV park (stay left on the paved road) until there is a gravel turn out with a trail heading along the lake. (You can drop off gear at this spot and then park in the first dirt lot, but RV camp hosts WILL ticket you for parking right at the trailhead.)

Walk down the trail to the east. Stay on trail for a 10 minute hike, head up the hill at the end of the quarry and take a right at the top of that small hill. There will be a climber trail to the right and you can see Poison Oak Wall above. Continue on trail for Ren and Aqua wall.

Can also be accessed via a boat by anchoring in the cove next to the obvious wall at the northern end of the lake.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Emigrant Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 13
Tool Shed
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Wimpy
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Bug Off
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Nachos- The Jim Davis Memorial R…
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Beavis
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Butthead
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Cornholio
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Judging Mike
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Aqua Weenie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Beyond the Siskiyou Sky
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Ren
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Aqua Man
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Other Kids
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Gloo
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Captain Horatio Horn Blower
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tool Shed (1) Poison Oak Wall
 13
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport, TR
Wimpy (2) Ren Wall
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bug Off (1) Poison Oak Wall
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Nachos- The Jim Davis Memor… (2) Ren Wall
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Beavis (1) Poison Oak Wall
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Butthead (1) Poison Oak Wall
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Cornholio (1) Poison Oak Wall
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Judging Mike (1) Poison Oak Wall
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Aqua Weenie (3) Aqua Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Beyond the Siskiyou Sky (3) Aqua Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Ren (2) Ren Wall
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Aqua Man (3) Aqua Wall
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Other Kids (1) Poison Oak Wall
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
Gloo (3) Aqua Wall
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Captain Horatio Horn Blower (3) Aqua Wall
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Emigrant Lake »

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