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09. Guide's Wall

Maine > -Camden Hills

Description

Guide's Wall has short (30-60'), mostly moderate routes on sometimes fragile schist. It is southeast facing and shaded by trees, so it's often best in the fall after the leaves are down. It dries slowly. Because it is not yet included in the guidebook, it gets little traffic. All routes have bolted belay/rappel anchors.

Getting There

Park at the Carriage Trail trailhead on Route 52, about a mile west of Camden. Follow the trail (an old road); take the left fork in about half a mile, where the right fork heads up Mount Battie. The trail will cross two small streams on wooden bridges, and then bend sharply right; a cairn just after the bend marks the climbers' trail on the left. Follow the climbers' trail up and left to the start of the left wall of a wide gully; this is the Guide's Wall. The total approach is about a mile of mostly flat walking and takes about 20 minutes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 10
Tin Man
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 11
Scarecrow
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 5
Sparkler
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 7
Firecracker
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 19
Treasure Island
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Mos Eisley
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
The Million Muppet March
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Common Ground
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 5
Madam Butterfly
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Cowboy Bebop
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
The Real Folk Blues
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 1
The Kuller
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Beautiful Garbage
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Alpine Spring
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Jerry's Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
The Crozier
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tin Man
 10
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Scarecrow
 11
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Sparkler
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Firecracker
 7
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Treasure Island
 19
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Mos Eisley
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Million Muppet March
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Common Ground
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Madam Butterfly
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Cowboy Bebop
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Real Folk Blues
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Kuller
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Beautiful Garbage
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Alpine Spring
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Jerry's Corner
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Crozier
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Branch is down on the two short and easy 5.4 routes on the left 8/6/2020
[Hide Photo] Branch is down on the two short and easy 5.4 routes on the left 8/6/2020
Fallen branch lodged above Sparkler/Firecracker as of 8/30/20
[Hide Photo] Fallen branch lodged above Sparkler/Firecracker as of 8/30/20
Guides Wall Area
[Hide Photo] Guides Wall Area
Caroline (7) learning how to layback on Treasure Island 5.3
[Hide Photo] Caroline (7) learning how to layback on Treasure Island 5.3
Tin Man, Scarecrow and Sparkler - Guide's Wall, Carriage Road Camden Hills
[Hide Photo] Tin Man, Scarecrow and Sparkler - Guide's Wall, Carriage Road Camden Hills

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Forrest Carver
Edgecomb, ME
[Hide Comment] The grading is quite soft in this area compared to the rest of Camden, in my personal opinion. Jul 28, 2019
Adam Ouellette
Washington Heights, Manhattan
[Hide Comment] Dont even bother coming here if you're looking to sport climb. Theres nothing. The bolted routes did not inspire anyone to jump on the wall. Sep 13, 2019
Dylan Day
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Great spot to bring newbies or kiddos, the grading might be soft but good practice for some of the harder climbs at south wall or NH. Sep 7, 2020