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Routes in The Havens

Black Stain S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call Me the Breeze S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cozzetti Steps Out S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crossing the Divide S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
GM (Government Motors) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Groveler, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Tony's Likeness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Inspiration S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Meagan's First FA S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Miles and Miles S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obama-nation S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Roofer Madness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Separation Variation S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shadow of A Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shady Character S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Summers Haven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wicked Sensation S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 7,800 ft
GPS: 32.433, -110.752 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 8,896 total, 206/month
Shared By: Antoine Horness on May 25, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Moderate sport crag with 17 climbs from 5.6 to 5.11. Tony Lusk found the crag and developed it with Tony Horness. The rock is good quality in a heavily wooded area with a short approach.

The main wall is split up into 3 sections. The first part of the climbing area on the east side has 5 climbs. The middle section of the wall has two climbs that start vertically and then are low angle which makes it hard for the belayer to see the climber. The west side of the crag has a 10 climbs with the first climb on a stand alone pinnacle.

Getting There

Mt Lemmon highway to MP23 Inspiration Rock south side picnic area. Take the east side drainage .25 mile to the obvious wall on the west side.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Havens

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summers Haven
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow of A Man
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Summers Haven 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Shadow of A Man 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
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Kevin Wagner
Tucson, Arizona
Kevin Wagner   Tucson, Arizona
I guess I'll add my story here, in case it helps anyone in the future.

I was toprope soloing one day at the havens. I tied my rope off to the telephone pole and rapped in from above, basically walking down the easy slabby terrain. I tied my tope to the top of Miles and Miles (still running to the phone pole as well so that I could safely climb out) and ran a few laps up Miles and Miles. Then I decided to move my rope over to the next climb, Obama-nation. Since the terrain is 5.easy, I left the rope tied to the anchor on miles and miles and traversed up and right toward the anchor ~20 feet away. On self-belay with a grigri at this point, I was standing on a big foothold feeding slack with both hands when my single baseball sized foothold broke. With this being my only point of contact, I started falling and went 20 feet bouncing off of the slab and into the chimney at the top of obama-nation before the rope caught me (or maybe the chimney caught me, I'm not really sure). I ended up breaking a rib in my back and walking out painfully.

Careful out there! Even the big solid looking holds can still break loose. If you're looking for a convenient place to rope-solo, be particularly aware and keep your rope running straight up. Nov 22, 2016
Greg Opland    
2 pages off... index says 397, but really 399. Jun 7, 2016
jbak  
Joe.... yeah I just looked in the index and saw no mention of "Havens". A quick thumb-through didn't locate it either. Jun 4, 2016
JoeS  
John,
Havens is in the book under Inspiration Point The Havens. You'd have to ask Eric why he chose to list it this way. Jun 4, 2016
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
Thanks everyone for the thoughts. Didn't mean to stir up such a controversy! The majority opinion drawn from MP, facebook, and real life seems to be that there's not much shade and it's not super baby or kid friendly. But there were some dissenting voices :)

And don't worry, I am not going to post this question on every crag on the mountain, as I have been to most of the likely candidates...just had never been here for whatever reason. Jun 4, 2016
jbak  
Hey captain guidebook....why aren't the Havens in there ? Refund !!

Charles... the east side definitely has a few shady afternoon climbs. The route names even suggest shade. I didn't take a toddler there, but I did take a Todd (McGregor). After a morning of scoping new stone we decided we could get a few routes in at the Havens before heading back to town. Todd seemed unimpressed. Jun 4, 2016
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I was going by Google, though I was kind of assuming the climbing was on the red line and apparently it's actually on the blue line. It was years ago and I can't even remember what I did 5 minutes ago lol

Jun 4, 2016
Someone needs to take a compass there!!! Jun 3, 2016
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
The crag is almost directly south facing, with a little bit of east.

I remember some shade in the morning for about an hour or so on the 2 or 3 routes on the far right, before the sun cleared the ridges to the east. Maybe from 9 to 10 AM or so. Rest of the day was pretty grim, I remember there were only a couple of bushes with minimal shade.

Some other people arrived and it was a sort of not-too-subtle competition to see who could swoop the shade while not climbing or belaying.

The tower on the far left has some shade because of trees nearby, but that's only one route.

Re: kids: The rock is fairly good quality. I wouldn't expect any big pieces to come off. There was a little kitty litter a couple of years ago but even that is probably gone by now. Jun 3, 2016
jbak  
A baby would probably work. Probably too rough for toddler. Jun 2, 2016
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
Thanks Jbak. Any thoughts on bringing the kiddo? Jun 2, 2016
jbak  
Pretty sunny there Charles. The east side has afternoon shade, but I think mornings would be sunny all round. Jun 2, 2016
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
From the description, it sounds like maybe you can chase shade here as there are routes on both the east and west aspects, is that right? Also, would folks describe this as a kid (baby in my case) friendly crag? Mostly looking for level staging areas out of the line of any rockfall from the climbs. Thanks! Jun 2, 2016
Thought this place was supposed to stay a secret... Oh well, great place for people new to climbing. May 26, 2014

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