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Routes in Light Deprivation Buttress

Fade To Black S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Funtastic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hershey Kiss Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Infra-Red S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Stalker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shadow Dancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slap in the Dark S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Side Up S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tangerine Dream S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Una-Bomber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Elevation: 6,960 ft
GPS: 39.24, -120.193 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,587 total · 125/month
Shared By: Tyson Waldron on May 23, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

You've cut away from work for a day to get in some volcanic sport climbing at Big Chief. All is good, the sun is shining, the birds are bumpin', the breeze is mellow, and the dirt road into the Chief parking area didn't even seem that long this time...

...Then you see it: a dozen or so cars jam the lot. You see visions of endless top ropes clogging the classics.

Have no fear, Light Deprivation Buttress is here! LDB is a small outcropping of similar Big Chief volcanic tuft. And as the name implies, shade can be found through much of the afternoon here, as most of the crag faces East, and there are trees abound. LDB can be a welcome reprieve from the relentless sun of the main Big Chief area. On our maiden voyage here as a team of three, we managed to tick 8 of the 9 climbs here, we could've done all of them, if the 9th wasn't .12c and we pulled harder. You will more than likely have the place to yourselves.

The area's anchors keep with the Big Chief 'mussy hook' system, which consists of chains and two large tow hooks that act as supremely beefy perma-biners. While it may be tempting to TR off of this insanely convenient configuration, help conserve the F.A.'s investment and only use them for rapping off when you are done, or if you must, lowering once after you are done with the climb.

Getting There

To find the buttress, park at the standard Big Chief parking area, and begin following the standard Big Chief approach trail. About half-way into the approach, or about half a mile, the main trail bends right at a decent sized clearing of trees. Here, you may or may not spot a faint logging trail that heads left. Pictures are included for this junction, it can be easy to miss, maybe people have since added cairns here, but keep your eyes peeled. Once you find the trail, it becomes fairly established and clear for the rest of the way. It heads more or less in the same south/southwest direction for most of the way, and gains hardly any elevation. You will reach the cliffs on your right after about a mile of total hiking from the lot.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Light Deprivation Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 14
Tangerine Dream
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 7
Sunny Side Up
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Infra-Red
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Una-Bomber
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Shadow Dancer
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Night Stalker
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Slap in the Dark
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tangerine Dream
 14
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sunny Side Up
 7
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Infra-Red
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Una-Bomber
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shadow Dancer
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Night Stalker
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Slap in the Dark
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Light Deprivation Buttress »

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Photos

This area was less crowded and had an easier approach than the main wall. Plenty of great routes with good shade. Sep 2, 2017

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