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Routes in Ailladie

Gallows Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genesis T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ground Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Jet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lisdoonfarout T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Marchanded Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nutrocker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
O'Connor's Corner T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Ocean, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pink Cleft T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
Rollerball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Route 32 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spitfire T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunstone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 47 ft
GPS: 53.072, -9.358 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,216 total, 51/month
Shared By: David Wire on May 18, 2014
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Description

Most of the crags in County Claire are in an area called the Burren. Ailladie is one of those crags. The Burren is an interesting landscape of grey limestone littered with fissures and flowering plants some of which are more common to the climate in The Mediterranean and rare for an area like Ireland.

Oliver Cromwell described The Burren as an area known “to have not wood enough to hang a man, water enough to drown him, nor earth enough to bury him.”

Ailladie is about 800m of limestone sea cliffs with a large collection of trad climbs of varying grades. Due to it's proximity to the coastal road, Ailladie attracts tourists by the bus load in addition to the climbers and fisherman. It's not uncommon to get approached while setting up anchors to abseil into a route.

The west-facing cliffs are steep limestone with many cracks, dihedrals and pockets for your climbing entertainment. There is no bolting allowed in the area and the rock and the gear are reasonable, what you would expect from limestone.

Due to its proximity to the sea the boulders at the bottom move around and the routes, particularly the starts, can change from year to year.

Accommodations
There are a couple of very nice hostels and bars to the south in Doolin with traditional Irish music and great beer every night.

Getting There

The cliffs are west of the road from Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughn (L54), 11 km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5 km past where it reaches the coast (coming from Lisdoonvarna). There are several parking areas on the east side of the road. The approach is fairly short at 10-15 minutes. Cross the road and head north along the cliff edge to the 'Fisherman's Descent', a grassy ramp leading to a 3m step down protected by a knotted rope.

14 Total Climbs

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Irish-Jane
Chamonix
Irish-Jane   Chamonix
If travelling and climbing here, there are 2 excellent guidebooks, one to just the Burren and another to all of Ireland. mountaineering.ie/shop/show… and threerockbooks.com/index.ph… Sep 3, 2015

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