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Wallula Gap

Washington > Southeast Corner

Description

Wallula Gap or perhaps more appropriately, "The Loo", is a pair of basalt cliff bands perched above the Columbia River a few hundred meters off the side of Highway 730. The climbs here are short, sometimes chossy and often one-move-wonders. Still, people stop by on the way to or from Portland just to stretch their legs, local college students come out to blow off steam after class or spend a lazy Sunday on the rock and locals stop by to put down a few routes after work.

Currently there are 38 routes on the lower cliff, with possibility for a few more. Theres a mix of trad and sport lines ranging from 5.3 to 5.11. Conveniently, many of the trad lines share anchors with sport climbs, or are accessible from the top. Thus, a rack is not necessary, but can be worth while if you want to mix things up. Inset bolts at the top of the cliff can be used to set up TR's if you have long webbing and don't want to lead. Most routes are between 20 and 35 feet long, so you can leave the 70m rope at home.

The upper cliff hosts about thirty routes from 5.4 to 5.10+ on extremely fractured basalt entablature. There is potential for many more routes on this second cliff but intensive cleaning (understatement) is required. Those willing to make the longer approach and pull thoughtfully are rewarded with 60ft routes high above the Columbia.

Weather

When it comes to weather, the gap is almost always better than walla walla. It’s not uncommon to leave Walla Walla in the rain or inversion and climb in direct sun at wallula. The west aspect of the cliff makes The Loo a perfect candidate for the sunset session on a clear afternoon. This orientation also means the area remains climbable (for the hardy) throughout the year, summer mornings and winter afternoons are the way to go if you just need to scratch the itch for real rock. The one thing that can really blow your day at wallula is the wind. Anything above 20 mph will make it hard to communicate with your belayer (even though you can practically touch them).

Getting There

From Walla Walla, Drive west on HWY. 12 to intersection with HWY. 730. Continue onto HWY. 730 for about two miles untill the road starts heading due south. Pulloff on west side of road between Two Sisters and Walla Walla Yacht Club (Port Kelly). It's an easier hike to the lower cliff if you drive past the first small pullout and park in the next (farther south) pullout which is much bigger. The hike in from the 2nd pullout, which diagonals across the slope rather than going straight up, is slightly longer but causes much less erosion.

Printable Guide

A Printable PDF guide to the lower cliff can be found HERE

*For best results print double sided and staple into a book

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brandon takes a sunset lap on "Loess Without You" <br>
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Photo by Meghan Ash
[Hide Photo] Brandon takes a sunset lap on "Loess Without You" Photo by Meghan Ash
Lower Cliff overview photo. Trad climbs are dashed.
[Hide Photo] Lower Cliff overview photo. Trad climbs are dashed.
View across the lower walls
[Hide Photo] View across the lower walls
photo taken by Spencer Reathaford
[Hide Photo] photo taken by Spencer Reathaford
The cliff band seen from the approach trail
[Hide Photo] The cliff band seen from the approach trail
The Most Incredible Alpine Area in North America
[Hide Photo] The Most Incredible Alpine Area in North America
morning shade at the loo
[Hide Photo] morning shade at the loo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian Perez
Richland, WA
[Hide Comment] Wallula is open. Whether is worth it or not is up to you. People like to shit on how small it and bad it is but I will take what is given. I am very grateful that the rock is there and that there were people nice enough to bolt it. I always enjoy my time climbing there and then jumping in the river.

I am interested in helping develop the 60' wall further above but I'm super new at this and I will need help from someone with a substantial amount of experience. Jul 16, 2020
Kevin Patterson
Lower Hutt, NZ
[Hide Comment] I for one was very impressed by the setup here. The walkin is short, the track access is good, and you get shade here until 12noon. All climbs are well bolted with belay chains at the top and can easily be accessed for TR via bolted anchors set back from the edge. Grades typically range from 5.4-5.10 which makes this a superb place to bring those 80% of climbers that can't lead past 5.9.

There are some small stones perched on the edge of most climbs which can be easily dislodged, so please don't be an idiot like those gurus on Rock and Ice Mag, and wear your helmet when belaying! Aug 14, 2021
Matt Mogck
Ashland, OR
[Hide Comment] Great approach trail, generous route development with an abundance of bolts and lower-off carabiners, great views, about a five minute walk from the road. If the routes were significantly taller this would be something of a destination. As it is, it's well worth the stop on your way through. Plenty of easy solos or traverses along the base if you're alone. Cheers to the local devs for the evident effort out into this funky little crag. Jun 9, 2022
Dean Ricker
La Grande, OR
[Hide Comment] Honestly, a cool area. Very appreciative of the route setters! The routes are surprisingly clean for this type of basalt. I work 6 miles from the gap so DM me if you need an midweek belay partner! Sep 17, 2022