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Byron Glacier Wall

Alaska > S Central Alaska > Portage

Description

The Byron Glacier Wall is (as of 2014) tucked under Byron Glacier and the surrounding mountains. The rock here is much more solid and polished than the climbs on the Seward Highway. The rock seams polished and compressed to into a quality that is worth climbing. Enjoy climbing this single pitch gray cliffs that pokes out of a green alder covered slope in this beautiful valley.
P.S. watch out for Avalanches in this area well into spring and summer.

Getting There

From Anchorage take the Seward Highway south past Girdwood then turn Left on Portage Glacier Rd toward Whittier and drive for 5 miles. Turn right on Byron Glacier Road then park at the lot .6 miles form the turnoff.
Follow the trail till it turns into a a scree slope with boulders. Hike up the slope to the walls that are near the south east corner of the glacier.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
● Slip and Slide
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● Waterslide
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 3
● Slippery When Wet
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
● The Wetter the Better
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● Stick Shift
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● Potentially Dry
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
● Indian Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
● Marksalot
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● Rootbeer Float
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
● Slurm
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
● Dynamo Hum
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
● Fragile Minds
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
● Can't Steal What They Don't Own
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
● Tom's Toothpaste
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
● Crisco Kid
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
● Icky Thump
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
● Black Pudding
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 3
● Spotted Dick
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 4
● Black Cab Rarebit
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
● Rage Against the Disease
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
● Amway
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 9
● Hungry Time
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
● Crossover
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● Virgin Mary, Not
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
● Just One More
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● Astroglide
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 3
● Ho Hum
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Slip and Slide
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Waterslide
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Slippery When Wet
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 2 pitches
● The Wetter the Better
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
● Stick Shift
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
● Potentially Dry
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Indian Crack
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Marksalot
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Rootbeer Float
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Slurm
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Dynamo Hum
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Fragile Minds
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Can't Steal What They Don't…
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Tom's Toothpaste
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Crisco Kid
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Icky Thump
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Black Pudding
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
● Spotted Dick
 3
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
● Black Cab Rarebit
 4
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
● Rage Against the Disease
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Amway
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
● Hungry Time
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Sport
● Crossover
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Virgin Mary, Not
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Just One More
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Astroglide
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Ho Hum
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The view up valley from the Byron Glacier Wall<br>
[Hide Photo] The view up valley from the Byron Glacier Wall
The river crossing is not bad at all. on the way in we hiked over the toe of the glacier to avoid the river crossing and experienced some objective hazard from falling ice! Only in AK can you almost die just trying to go sport climbing:)
[Hide Photo] The river crossing is not bad at all. on the way in we hiked over the toe of the glacier to avoid the river crossing and experienced some objective hazard from falling ice! Only in AK can you almos…
The trail head to Byron Glacier Wall
[Hide Photo] The trail head to Byron Glacier Wall