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Self Potential Wall

Virginia > Central & South… > Charlottesville… > Wintergreen
Warning Access Issue: Private property, so keep a low profile. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a short wall with two easy crack systems, and two thin and challenging sport routes that all share an anchor.

Getting There

Head down the Brimstone trail another 200 feet past the Beginner slab. The trail will veer right, and scramble down some boulders. After a little further, while going down the trail you'll notice a flat area under a boulder just off the trail to your right.  Walk under the boulder and go downhill on the obvious path (not Brimstone Trail).  The wall is about 50 feet past the boulder you walked under on the right.  You'll see bolts on the wall, and an anchor on the boulder perched at the top.

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
● Lichen and Lov'n It!
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
● Nut Job
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
● Self Potential
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
● Fear and Loathing
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
● Gription
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 13
● Fear of the Gumby
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
● Salt and Pepper
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
● Chalk Board
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Lichen and Lov'n It!
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Nut Job
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Self Potential
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Fear and Loathing
 24
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
● Gription
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
● Fear of the Gumby
 13
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Salt and Pepper
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Chalk Board
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photo taken from the bottom of Nut Job. Climb to the right is Self Potential (bolted). This is a fun route with a new bolted anchor at the top.
[Hide Photo] Photo taken from the bottom of Nut Job. Climb to the right is Self Potential (bolted). This is a fun route with a new bolted anchor at the top.
Turn off to get to the wall. Go under the rock and continue down to a flat ledge.
[Hide Photo] Turn off to get to the wall. Go under the rock and continue down to a flat ledge.
Unidentified slab climb to the right of self potential wall.
[Hide Photo] Unidentified slab climb to the right of self potential wall.
Leading Nut Job.
[Hide Photo] Leading Nut Job.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Gerry
Burlington, VT
[Hide Comment] I did a slab climb right as you walk into this area. It is basically a big flake with a spot for a cam about 10 feet off the deck, two older 5/8 inch bolts, and what looks like a brand new anchor with 1/2 inch stainless bolts, quick links, and rap rings. It was a pretty nice little climb... probably goes around 5.7 or 5.8. Does anyone know what it is. I'll post a pic on this page. Nov 7, 2020
SICgrips
Charlottesville
[Hide Comment] I've seen it and wondered the same thing, though I have climbed it yet. Dec 3, 2020
Samuel Puckett
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] The slab route with the 2 bolts is called Chalk Board and goes at 5.6, theres also a finger crack to the left with 2 variations for the start thats definitely worth doing. I believe its called Salt and Pepper and the left start is 5.9 and the right start is 5.8. Shares the same anchor as Chalk Board. Mar 24, 2021
Sarah Ferreira
Fort Drum, NY
[Hide Comment] I found this to be the nicest climbing at Wintergreen with a variety grades with both trad and sport. Small wall with 8 climbs, but new bolted anchors make for a fun day or moderate leading which can then turn into a good hard top rope session. The rock quality to the climbers left is a bit sketchy, but overall the climbing here is pretty straight forward. Lots of bang for your buck at this location. Aug 26, 2021